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Of all the reasons for veering off the beaten tour-bus path in Ireland and striking out for a week under a thatched roof in northern County Donegal, the best may be this: Instead of disembarking each day at another town, another attraction, another hotel, another gift shop, another pub, until they all seem the same, a traveler gets to know one still-traditional corner of Ireland a little bit intimately. That was our expectation this summer, and it became our delight. My wife, Clare, found through the Internet a restored traditional cottage, parts of it 300 years old, in the hills near the little village of Kerrykeel (Carrowkeel in some spellings) on Mulroy Bay. The owner rented it out for vacations (www.grahamscottage.com) to defray the cost of maintaining an increasingly rare link to old Ireland. Being a family of romantics, we leapt at the idea. The cottage was remote by Irish standards, yet near enough to historical and cultural sites for day trips. It was secluded, yet within walking distance of at least three pubs. It offered opportunities to hike up hills and along rocky coasts, chat with locals over Guinness or simply loll by a peat fire, a glass of Powers whiskey in hand, while the rain came down. Most important, perhaps, to someone spending a week there, it was an Irish cottage with modern upgrades. Most of the original features remained in all their rusticity of thatch, rough wood and low ceilings, but with the addition of a tiled shower, plenty of hot water and comfortable beds. Across from a huge kitchen fireplace that must have cooked for thousands over the years were an electric stove and refrigerator. And unlike previous occupants - circa 1780, for instance - we did not share living space with pigs and cows. As for intimacy: When several dozen travelers or more descend on a pub from a bus, they take over. When one or two travelers slip into chairs among the locals at Paddy Mor's in Kerrykeel, or next to the penny whistle and accordion players at O'Shaughnessy's in Rathmullan, they can actually join in the friendly conversation and other joys of Irish pub life. Not as insiders, but at least as equals. It makes all the difference. The immersion that came with independent exploration had many such benefits, some of them surprises. A rough, muddy walk through a farmer's field and up a mountainside took my wife and daughter to a stone tomb dating back millennia. A 15-kilometer walk around the Rosguill peninsula left us all tired and drenched, but also took us by a shop selling fish fresh from the sea and then to a roaring fire in a strategically situated pub. Another day, an impromptu afternoon of pony trekking introduced us to a beyond-amiable owner who tipped us off to a traditional dance at a church in Fanavolty. The locals were happy to instruct outsiders in the intricacies of the square-dance-like steps, although in the case of one slow learner (that would be me) an exasperated woman was reduced to pointing to a spot on the floor and shouting "Stay!" Ireland being Ireland, however, another crucial benefit of our week of total independence was the freedom to prepare our own meals. Where restaurants are concerned, well, Ireland is a great place to drink. Which is not to say we didn't have a few good experiences. Our first night took us to Lippset's, a pub, shop and bed and breakfast in Coolaney, County Sligo, where the proprietors were almost lovingly attentive to the needs of jet-lagged Americans. That alone would have won our hearts, but they also served up a simple but tasty dinner, including a nice tomato sauce. The Bridge in Rathmullan, County Donegal, and, at the end of our trip, Tubridy's in Doonbeg, County Clare, also came through with fine dinners. But in two weeks in Ireland, they were about it. Irish cuisine is still, shall we say, finding its way in the modern world. But for those willing to brave a strange kitchen and utensils and head into the Irish groceries (that would be my wife in our case), consistently good food is quite possible, not to mention cheaper than eating out. Local milk, meat, fish, fruit, butter and of course potatoes were all remarkably fresh and flavorful. The local cabbage was a mild and tasty variety. And the bread and other baked goods were astounding. All of which leads me to wonder, if the ingredients are so good, why is Irish restaurant food so often bad? This is an important issue that clearly calls for extensive research and study, on site, preferably after bracing walks in the Donegal hills, over cool, dark pints of Guinness. Volunteers should form up behind me. |
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