| CHIMNEY ROCK: Dont be afraid to scale new heights
By Lindsey Nair
lindsey.nair@roanoke.com 981-3334

This North Carolina landmark offers spectacular views. |
Where to stay and where to eat. |
Agoraphobics and claustrophobes may do well to stay away from Chimney Rock Park, N.C., where dizzying heights and tight spaces await them.
For everyone else, that means spectacular views of shimmering Lake Lure far below and fascinating adventures in rock crevices formed by nature.
The park covers 1,000 acres of mountainside in Hickory Nut Gorge, about 25 miles southeast of Asheville, N.C., and about 250 miles from Roanoke. It has been privately owned by the Morse family since 1902, when three brothers pooled their resources and purchased the land, dreaming that it would someday become a family attraction.
When we visited the park the Saturday before last, we were one day ahead of a two-day fog and lucky to see miles and miles of autumn color from atop the towering rock that gives the park its name. But the staggering views from Chimney Rock and other lookouts would have to be magnificent on any clear day, all year round.
Of course, Chimney Rock Park's most recent claim to fame is its appearance in "The Last of the Mohicans" with Daniel Day-Lewis, where American Indian characters fight on the sides of cliffs and sometimes actually fall over the edge.
In real life, visitors need only protect themselves by keeping to the wooden stairs that wind up the mountain and the rocky path that circles above the 404-foot-tall waterfall. Short of having a heart attack climbing to the top, there is little danger and a lot of joy to be found there.
Visitors might start out far below the rocky mountain face in the village of Chimney Rock, where streetside parking is available in front of shops, lodges and restaurants. Some eateries offer outdoor dining overlooking the rocky Broad River, which looks like a ribbon from the top of the rock 1,200 feet above.
If you're looking for North Carolina barbecue, you'll find it in several restaurants in the village, along with homestyle cooking, ice cream and breads.
Right in the middle of the village is the sign that beckons visitors across the river and up the mountain to Chimney Rock Park. A winding road framed by a stone wall leads visitors past rhododendron thickets to the park office.
Early arrivals can purchase their tickets and drive the rest of the way to the base of the cliffs to park, but overflow parking and shuttling is available. I recommend arriving as soon as the park opens to avoid riding an old school bus up a tiny, curvy road.
Come to think of it, that part was scarier than the climb itself.
Once at the base of the cliffs, visitors can choose to climb the 800 stairs or ride an elevator to the top of Chimney Rock. The elevator, built in 1949, is wonderful for disabled guests who don't want to miss the overlook.
If you aren't disabled, I recommend climbing. Every landing seems to afford some new view, whether it be of the valley below, a sheer expanse of black rock or a damp, mossy little shelf in the mountainside. Lookouts such as Vista Rock and Grotto are good places to take a breather, too.
Judging by one park rule, which reads, "Do not pick wildflowers or harm snakes and other wildlife in any way," visitors might see other things, too.
Just below Chimney Rock itself is the Sky Lounge, a gift shop and snack bar where visitors can find souvenirs and refuel before starting up the next several flights of stairs. At the top of those steps, the Skyline Trail begins and meanders past the 2,480-foot Exclamation Point to the top of Hickory Nut Falls.
The Cliff Trail takes walkers down from there, cutting across the rock wall and, at one point called the Wildcat Trap, squeezing between the cliff and a huge boulder lodged there.
In the last leg of the descent, there are two adventurous choices. You can follow the trail through the Subway, a cave that forces you to duck and crawl, or walk down a tight spiral staircase called Needles Eye, which is built into a crevice in the mountain.
To reward yourself after the exertion of the stairs, take an easier walk down the Forest Stroll, a little path that curves through the trees to the base of the falls.
In the summertime, you might want to duck right under that waterfall, but check out Lake Lure instead for a refreshing swim. Just down the road from Chimney Rock Park is the 1,500-acre lake and a beach complete with water slides.
From a spot on the sand, you can hear live music at Margaritaville, a bar and restaurant that attracts scores of Harley-Davidson enthusiasts. If motorcycling isn't your thing, try a dinner cruise or hop a golf cart at the Lake Lure Golf and Beach Resort instead.
Many Roanokers have never heard of Chimney Rock, but the park celebrated its 100th anniversary last year. Take a weekend and check it out it's better late than never.
|