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Monday, August 06, 2001
From the trailhead to the peak, hikers must climb more than 2,000 feet.
By MARK TAYLOR
Photographer Sam Dean and I were seeking the mountain's challenging trek and spectacular views when we arrived at its base early Sunday morning, the fourth day of our 10-day adventure quest through North Carolina, Virginia and West Virginia.
We knew we couldn't undertake such a trip without including a good hike or two, and Old Rag seemed an appropriate destination. Neither of us had hiked at this popular area of Shenandoah National Park, but we'd heard and read plenty of rave reviews - in hiking and climbing guidebooks, in magazine articles, on Internet sites and from countless hikers. The mountain's popularity shaped our plans. We knew we had to arrive early because the two parking areas at the trailhead have room for just over 200 cars. That may sound like a lot - and it is - but on busy weekends, the lots sometimes fill up and hikers are turned away. We had no such worries when we arrived, nabbing a spot in the small lot nearest the trailhead. That saved us from an extra two miles of hiking to and from the area's overflow parking lot. Ranger Gilbert Campbell was there, keeping an eye on things. "It's going to be a beautiful day," he said. By the looks of the four hikers who came out of the woods a few minutes later, it was also going to be a strenuous day. The four had camped on the mountain Saturday night, hiking to the peak at sunrise before hiking out. They looked like they'd been through the wringer. "I'm sweaty and dirty," said Nancy Fasciano of Washington, D.C. She also was bleeding. "There is some scrambling and some of us got bloody," said Fasciano, who banged her shin on a rock. The mountaintop was shrouded in haze as Sam and I headed out on the 7.2-mile circuit hike that zigzags up the mountain's eastern slope to the peak, then returns down the mountain's western side.
Evidence of a big forest fire that hit the area last fall was everywhere. The forest floor was charred black, as were trees and stumps. The fire, actually three separate blazes that eventually merged, burned more than 22,000 acres, Campbell told us. More amazing than the remnants of the inferno was the condition of the area just nine months later. In its first miles the trail was lined with lush ferns, large trees were green and healthy, and rocks near spring seeps were covered with fresh moss. Further proof of the area's renewal came a couple of miles up the trail, when a doe and her fawn jumped across the trail as we approached, then stopped to watch us. For much of the route we hiked with Michelle Thieling, Scott Greenwood and Greg Landis, a trio of trekkers from Reston. Preparing for an alpine assault on Washington's Mount Rainier that begins next week, Landis selected Old Rag as his main training ground. He's been to the mountain a half-dozen times this year, carrying a heavy pack on his trips to the summit. After an hour of strenuous hiking, we reached a rocky outcropping that provided a soaring view into the valley below and beyond. Just up the ridge, huge rocks jutted skyward. "Is that the summit?" Greg answered. "We're only about halfway there," he said. The climb offers several false summits. From below, they appear to be the ridge's highest peak. Once you get there, you see there is still more climbing. From the trailhead to the peak, hikers must climb more than 2,000 feet. "It's good because it filters out the weak," Greenwood said.
The elevation gain is enough to scare off most couch potatoes, and it's not even the toughest aspect of the hike. That title belongs to the rock scrambling necessary as the trail approaches the peak. We had to thread our way through a maze of huge granite slabs and boulders. The route demands strength, patience and care. A misplaced step could result in a broken leg and a trip off the peak in a rescue helicopter. An early start helps hikers avoid the bottlenecks that can occur when slow-moving hikers navigate through the boulder field. After two hours of work, we reached the marker noting the peak of Old Rag Mountain, at an elevation of 3,268 feet.
Sipping water and enjoying the refreshing mountain breeze, we sat on granite boulders smoothed by the tens of thousands of visitors who'd been there before. Because of the haze, the view wasn't as good as it could have been, but it was easy to see the potential. Rested, re-hydrated and now among those who rate the Old Rag hike among the best in Virginia, we took a final look into the hazy distance, hopped across a few boulders and reluctantly started the long hike down the mountain. The hike The hike to the peak on the mountain's east side is 2.8 miles, a strenuous climb that includes some challenging sections requiring rock scrambling. The route down the mountain's west side is 4.4 miles long, combining a trail and the Weakly Hollow fire road. It is an alternative route to the top for hikers seeking a less strenuous route. Because the mountain is in Shenandoah National Park, hikers must have a park entrance permit, which is $5 for adults. Camping is permitted, but not above 2,800 feet. Pets are not allowed on the Old Rag trail.
After tackling Old Rag, many hikers refuel at The Mill House Restaurant and Bakery and the Appetite Repair Shop in nearby Sperryville. October is by far the busiest month.
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