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Sunday, September 29, 2002
OUTDOORS
North end of Appalachian Trail a treat
By MARK TAYLOR OUTDOORS EDITOR
Jutting from the rolling birch and pine forests of central Maine, Mount Katahdin cuts an imposing figure.
From a distance the bald granite mountain has the appearance of an extra-wide, enormous Rock of Gibraltar. Like Gibraltar, Katahdin is not only visually striking, it's also rich in symbolism.
The mountain's pinnacle, Baxter Peak, represents the northern end of the Appalachian Trail. The peak is a glorious place for folks like Daleville's Witcher family to celebrate a hike of the 2,168-mile trail.
Fortunately, one need not be an AT through hiker to tackle the climb.
In my lifetime I don't expect to hike more than a couple hundred miles of the Appalachian Trail. Last weekend, while covering the Witchers' final couple of days on the Appalachian Trail, I was able to hike Katahdin.
Was it a life-changing experience? No. Was it a life highlight? Absolutely.
If you like hiking, amazing scenery and physical challenges, do this now: start planning a trip to Mount Katahdin.
Let's begin with the setting.
Baxter State Park is a beautiful place. Covering more than 200,000 acres, the park was born when former Maine governor Percival Baxter donated the land to the state.
The park's rolling hills are dotted with bald granite mounds, some of which are nearly as tall and rugged as Katahdin. Trails wind their way to the top of each one. Ponds are everywhere, holding trout, bass and landlocked salmon. Moose often can be seen wading and feeding on the ponds. The park is crisscrossed with hiking trails, from easy strolls to challenging climbs.
Katahdin is the park's crown jewel.
On paper, the climb up the Hunt Trail/AT to its peak is intimidating. The elevation gain is more than 4,000 feet. That's four times taller than Roanoke's Mill Mountain. Because two miles of the 5.2-mile trail are relatively flat, most of the climbing takes place in three miles.
Think of it as climbing stairs for three miles.
After a gradual first mile, the climbing begins. For the next mile-and-a-half or so, the Hunt Trail is similar to the final, steepest section of the Dragon's Tooth climb.
Then comes more than a mile of scrambling through huge boulders atop the spine of a steep ridge.
At the top of the boulder field, hikers emerge onto a tundralike plateau. A mile of flat hiking is followed by another short, steep pull to Baxter Peak.
It's interesting, challenging hiking in an amazing setting. It's potentially dangerous, and one careless step could lead to a sprained ankle or much, much worse.
Since 1963, 19 people have died on Katahdin.
I finished the climb, which means you don't have to be a hiking machine to reach Baxter Peak. You have to be in reasonably good condition, but the key is taking your time. Give yourself five hours to get to the top, and at least that long to come down.
The day we climbed Katahdin it was unusually hot and humid for Maine in late September. Because of the haze, the view was merely spectacular. Nothing I've experienced in Virginia comes close. On a clear day, the view would be otherworldly.
Another great option that we weren't able to do is to descend on the Knife's Edge trail off Baxter Peak. It's a spectacular route on a narrow connecting ridge that has the appearance of the sharp side of a serrated knife.
Although it's just one of the attractions of Baxter State Park, Katahdin is an extremely popular hiking destination. Because the park limits the number of daily visitors to minimize impact, parking spots and campsites are in high demand. Weekend camping sites at Katahdin Stream Campground are usually booked a year in advance. On weekends, day hikers often start lining up outside the park gates at 2 a.m. to assure themselves a parking spot.
It's best to attempt Katahdin during the week, which, if you're traveling from Virginia, shouldn't be a problem.
Because Katahdin can become dangerous in bad weather, park officials sometimes close the trail. The prime hiking season is June through mid-October.
For more information on Baxter State Park, call (207)723-5140 or see baxterstateparkauthority.com.
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