Thursday, January 24, 2008
Fig tree move will require strength, diligence
John Arbogast
Landscape consultant John Arbogast answers your questions every Thursday. Send questions about your lawn, garden, plants, or insects to:
Dear John
5102 Greenfield St. SW
Roanoke, Va. 24018
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Q: I need your recommendations with my outdoor fig, which has significant historical and sentimental significance. Now I am facing a move, and want to bring the tree with me. This might be a terrible time of the year to move all or part of a tree, so I am wondering what to do. This tree is about 5 feet high and in diameter. Not moving is not an option for me unfortunately. I have access to an un-heated Florida room.
A: I’d suggest moving the entire fruiting fig tree. I’m assuming that the new location that you will transplant this fig tree to is not in a U.S.D.A Hardiness Zone colder than Roanoke’s zone 7, or the colder Zone 6 if you’re willing to provide winter protection for the fig in future winters. Follow the steps given here. Please note that some of my suggestions will involve very heavy work, so be prepared to have adequate muscular assistance.
Secure a large wide plant root container that has some drainage holes. For a fruiting fig that is about 5 feet tall with a 5 feet spread, I’d suggest getting a big and wide container like a huge galvanized wash tub or even a strong but wide 90-gallon or larger storage bin that has sturdy wheels and strong handles into which you can make drainage holes.
Make sure there is ample, easily accessible room with plenty of bright windows in the Florida room you mentioned. This room must be frost-free, and a low source of gentle heat will help maintain any premature growth that emerges.
Also, go online to the Novozymes Biologicals Company to get data on which of their Roots products will best work to encourage new root development on the fig soon after digging. Buy the product and be sure you understand the directions. The Web Address is www.novozymes.com/roots and follow the links provided. I believe that this company has a plant in Salem.
Begin the work to dig the entire fig tree as soon as the soil is thawed enough to dig. You will want to remove the undisturbed root and soil mass that the fig tree’s trunk is currently growing from. The trunk will probably be in the middle of the soil that surrounds the tree, unless the fig is growing near some impervious surface on 1 side, such as a patio.
Removing the fig’s root mass will involve the same procedure used when digging any root ball for moving. Start just outside the fig’s branch drip line, and dig a wide and deep doughnut-shaped hole all around the root mass, going down at least 24 inches deep, digging more or less deep based on the actual soil type encountered. Note that the side of the doughnut shape close to the fig’s root mass should be just a little past the drip line as digging is progressing.
Then, when the doughnut is at the proper depth mentioned above, dig under the root-soil mass so that the entire heavy thing can be lifted out. If several significant-sized roots are encountered, keep digging.
To answer the question about why can’t the fig be dug out bare root to save the weight of all the soil adhering to the roots, keep in mind the goal which is to prevent breaking off of necessary fig dormant roots from the cold soil. Emergence of new roots out-of season will be slow, but we hope to be successful in fooling Mother Nature into thinking that spring is nearby.
Apply the Roots product as directed at the appropriate time.
Place the heavy fig root ball into the huge wide wash tub or wide rolling storage bin and fill in any soil gaps with bagged topsoil. If the root-soil mass is wider than the capacity of the container, carefully use a digging shovel to reduce the size of the soil mass to fit. Keep in mind, though, that feeder roots will be lost as parts are broken away. Water the entire root ball slowly using room temperature water.
Use a tree dolly or storage bin wheels to situate the entire fig tree into the Florida room.
Loosely wrap the root container sides and top with a large piece of plastic. Then, wrap this with an electric blanket set on a low heat setting to encourage gentle soil warming. This low warmth will be needed for current root recovery and new root growth. Remove the electric blanket and plastic after about 8 hours. Place this around the root-soil container for 8 hours each day each day for 2 weeks.
Insert an indoor plant water meter into scattered places in the fig’s root ball to test for soil moisture as long as the fig tree is “potted.”. Stick a finger into the fig’s soil at scattered places as a “double check.” Apply water to the fig only when the need is indicated.
Keep the fig potted in the Florida root until the growing season is into the frost-free time, since growing the fig tree as a potted plant will make the plant tender and unable to withstand even a light freeze. Giving normal post transplanting care will be critical.
