Dan Casey

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My daughter Erin, 11, had been complaining her butt hurt for the past half-hour. We'd ridden our bikes about eight miles, back and forth on an island greenway along the James River, looking for the place we'd heard the trail passes through an old railroad tunnel.

"I'm not going any farther!" Erin pouted. "I'll wait for you, by the side of the trail."

Then we rounded a bend and spied the entrance to the Hollins Mill Tunnel. Bright lights bolted to its high ceiling cast a pinkish glow inside. Near the entrance, drops of water spat downward from jagged, brown-gray rocks. Because the 508-foot-long tunnel makes a sweeping bend, we couldn't see the other side. "Hey, look!" she shouted, speeding ahead on her bike, then stopping beneath the cold, cascading drops. All self-pitying thoughts of saddle soreness suddenly evaporated. "Dad, it's cold in here! This is coooool!"

Great family getaway

Our adventure on this sunny September Saturday started in downtown Lynchburg, about 50 miles east of Roanoke. Besides Erin and I, there were Donna, my wife, and our daughter Anna, 8, and son Zach, 3 (he rode in a bike cart).

Why did we drive 50 miles from Roanoke to check out a greenway? Probably because our hometown doesn't have any, at least not yet. Unlike Roanoke, where greenway development has occurred at a glacial pace, the Hill City has actually built them. And the crown jewel of these efforts is the Percival's Island/Blackwater Creek trail system.

The linear park comprises hundreds of aces of shady asphalt bike paths linked by bridges over the James and the aforementioned tunnel and is accessible from downtown. It's quiet, gorgeous, flat and a place that's popular among bicyclists, hikers and the baby-stroller set.

You don't even need a bike to check it out. Blackwater Creek Bike Rentals will rent one at a very reasonable rate -- about $5 per hour. They also rent kiddie trailers and jogger-strollers.

Percival's Island

Our ride actually took place on two separate trails. One was on Percival's Island, a narrow, 1 1/2-mile-long spit in the middle of the James River. The other is known as the Blackwater Creek Trail. Although they're not yet connected, three blocks on a downtown Lynchburg side street will get you from the end of one to the beginning of the other.

The Percival's Island trail is a beaut. Smooth and flat, it begins with a long wooden bridge across the James from Lynchburg's waterfront to a long-abandoned (and now overgrown) Norfolk & Western Railroad yard. Near the island's end, another bridge crosses the James into Amherst County. On the left at the trail's end, follow a dusty gravel road to the remnants of an old stone structure that provided water and coal for steam locomotives.

Dan Casey | The Roanoke Times

The entrance to the 502-foot-long Hollins Mill Tunnel, now part of the Blackwater Creek greenway in Lynchburg.

We rode down to the end, picnicked, turned around and headed back toward Blackwater Creek.

Blackwater Creek

After we backtracked to the beginning of the Percival's Island trail, we crossed the railroad tracks and headed north on Jefferson Street. At the end of the street are a few short wooden stairs. Go down them and you'll be at the beginning of the Blackwater Creek Trail.

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Here's what the city of Lynchburg's Web site says about it:

"Originally envisioned in 1934, the idea of a natural preserve in the heart of Lynchburg was shelved for nearly four decades until it was reintroduced by city Planners in 1971. Concerned citizens banded together in 1973 to form the 'Friends of Lynchburg Stream Valleys,' and played a crucial role in the support and development of the Natural Area. With a master plan in place, the city purchased the required land and established trails. On May 17, 1979, the Blackwater Creek Natural Area was officially dedicated, and has been a component of the National Trail System since January of 1981.

"Encompassing 288 acres of land, the Blackwater Creek Natural Area is the largest of the city parks. It has 12 miles of trails, several picnic sites, many scenic vistas and a baseball field. It is open year round from 7 a.m. to sunset. It is also hoped that some day trails can be extended into Campbell and Bedford Counties and possibly connect with the Appalachian Trail.

"Many varieties of plants and animals thrive in the Blackwater Creek Natural Area. The stream valleys are replete with sycamore, spice bush, paw-paw, and walnut trees; while the ridges abound with oak, pine, hickory and tulip poplars. Herbaceous plant including jack-in-the-pulpits, nettles and jewelweed proliferate in the moist conditions near the creek.

"Wildflowers such as robin's plantain, dog-tooth violets, wild ginger and bloodroot blossom in the spring; wile lobelia, Joe-pye weed, Indian pipe, Blackeyed Susans, asters and goldenrod flourish in summer and fall. Winter brings the blooms of the flowering witch hazel.

"The abundant flora provides the necessary nourishment to support the deer, wild turkeys, possums, raccoons and rodents that live in the natural area. Many species of birds such as cardinals, doves, sparrows, finches, blue jays, wrens, flickers, herons and pileated woodpeckers also make their homes here. Predator animals found in the area include hawks, owls, foxes and snakes."

Hollins Mill Tunnel

Truth is, we didn't ride the entire network of trails. Both Erin and Anna were getting saddle sore; it was all I could do to encourage them to keep going until we got to the Hollins Mill Tunnel. Once you've seen it, it's easy to understand why the girls forgot about their sore butts.

The Virginia and Tennessee Railroad blasted this 508-foot engineering marvel between 1851 and 1852. The company laid tracks through it as it advanced its main line westward, from Lynchburg to Bristol. It was later taken over by Norfolk Southern and used until 1985.

The tunnel is a comfortable 10 feet wide, with about 15-foot ceilings. Its jagged rock walls and ceiling are unsupported. The trail turns to concrete for the tunnel's distance. It's also about 10 degrees cooler inside. A weeping spring inside the southern end rains down cold water and makes for a great cool-down on a hot day.

Notes

There's no place to get food along your way, so bring your own if you intend to picnic. There also are no bathroom facilities, although there are plenty of places to step off the trail for a discrete leak.

If you don't have a bike, or you don't have an easy way to get yours to the trail, Blackwater Creek Bike Rentals will rent you one. Rita Green owns this business; her husband, Wes, helps out. Their prices start at $5/hour, and they've also got kiddie trailers, trail-a-bikes (which make for a child-adult tandem) and jogging strollers. They're open 3:30 - dusk on weekdays and 9 a.m. - dusk on weekends. For more information or to reserve a bike, call (804) 845-4030.

Getting there

From Roanoke, head east on 460 to Lynchburg. When you get close to town, do NOT take 460 Business, but continue on the highway about five more miles and take the Candlers Mountain Road exit. At the end of the ramp, make a right. At the Candler Station shopping center, follow the ramp on the right that puts you back on Candler Mountain Road. Go past River Ridge Mall on your left and take U.S. 29 north. Follow this to Exit 1, Main Street) the last exit before the James River bridge. Go under the Main Street overpass, take the ramp, which'll put you on Main Street going west. Go just two streets, past the Travelodge Motel on right. Turn on Washington Street, proceed all the way to the bottom of the hill, cross the railroad tracks, and you'll see the parking area.