Many grape growers raised their wine glasses to a bittersweet toast as they cheered 2004 production. Yes, wine grape production was up, but not nearly what it was in 2002 and the year before that.

From chardonnay to viognier, Virginia's 250 vineyards produced more than 3,700 tons of commercial grapes in 2004, up nearly 3 percent from the previous year.

Of those, 543 tons were harvested in Southwest Virginia, up 52 percent from a year earlier.

Weather permitting, 2005 is expected to yield even higher numbers because more vineyards are in operation.

"It's looking good so far. Cross your fingers for a good year," said David Sawyer, co-owner of Fincastle Vineyard & Winery. "A late frost could hurt us. Two years ago we had a frost on May 21."

The uptick in production comes at a time when Virginia is trying to help its wine industry expand inside and outside the state.

Virginia ranks fifth among vinifera wine-growing states, 10th nationally in commercial production and ninth for grape-bearing acreage. The state's top three grape varieties are chardonnay, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon.

By the year 2015 the state's wine industry should double its market share within the state and reach measurable sales on a national level, according to a wine study group under Gov. Mark Warner. One goal is to establish and fund vineyard and wine production research and testing programs to ensure the highest quality practices. Another recommends a marketing program to increase demand and prices of Virginia wine.

Today, the wine industry in Virginia is in a "revolving door pattern," with growers joining and leaving the business, said Tony Wolf, viticulturist and director of Virginia Tech's agricultural research and extension center in Winchester. Some larger vineyards have cut back on production and others are opening. Some growers might not pick their grapes because they are not of the desired quality. Others, like Villa Appalachia in Floyd, pulled 3 acres of the vidal and malvasia varieties in 2002 and 2003 because of poor yields, and planted new Italian varieties, corvina and aglianico.

Grapes came off the vines late last summer and fall and were a good vintage crop, said the Virginia Farm Bureau. Production of the vinifera varieties - grapes that come from vines of European origin - accounted for the majority. Producers harvested a crop valued at $4.8 million, receiving an average price of $1,300 a ton.

Local vineyards and wineries reported mixed news about their yields.

Sawyer reported a 20 percent to 30 percent increase in production for 2004. He purchased 9,000 pounds from another vineyard, and harvested 23,000 pounds.

Valhalla Vineyards in Roanoke County lost 50 percent to 80 percent of its red grapes. Dr. Jim Vascik, co-owner, blamed the seasons' hurricanes, which dumped 14 inches of rain in 10 days.

Vascik considers it a good year when he produces 4,500 cases of wine. In 2004, he produced about 2,000. In 2003 he produced about 150 cases. "That was a dismal, atrocious year," he said.

Wine quality is better in dry weather because producers can control the amount of water the vines receive. And growers experience few problems with disease or fungus, problems they would typically encounter during a rainy season.

AmRhein Wine Cellars on Bent Mountain has a new vineyard that was planted three years ago. There, one finds several varieties, such as cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and viognier. "Grape production will increase by one-third this year," said Steve Bolleter, winemaker.

Hickory Hill Vineyard in Moneta reported an increase in sales in 2004. Judy Furrow and her husband, Roger, planted their vineyards in 1992 and sold their grapes to another winery until 2000.

Many of the new vineyards and wineries are fairly small - producing less than 3,000 cases of wine a year - unlike the larger ones that developed in the late 1980s and early 1990s, Wolf said. Money is one big reason. Higher land prices, serious capital outlay and the time it takes to recoup the initial investment are some reasons for the smaller vineyards and wineries.

It cost about $12,000 to plant 1 acre, Wolf said.

Drema Sylvester and her husband, Fred, invested between $300,000 to $350,000 to start their new vineyard in Bedford County. That price does not include the land.

Other newcomers to the industry in Southwest Virginia are Margie Wood and her husband, David, and John Freeborn.

Wood crushed out her first vintage in the fall of 2004, and her wine will be available in late July. She and her husband planted their first vines in 2001, and started with about 1.8 acres in Huddleston. She now farms about 7 acres. She's growing chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese, sauvignon blanc, merlot, cabernet franc and chambourcin.

"My husband and I lived in Northern Virginia and lived the crazy and hectic lifestyle like everybody else. We thought if we did something agricultural in the country that may be something enjoyable to do into retirement."

Growing grapes and making wine was the ultimate path for the Woods. "Little did we know how silly that was," she said, laughing. "It's just as hectic, just as stressful, but in a different way. We get a lot of personal satisfaction."

The Woods hope to produce up to 1,200 cases for 2005; last year they produced about 300 cases.

Freeborn, a former extension agent in West Virginia, opened Powder Mill Vineyard in Franklin County two years ago. He's planted cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, chardonnay and vidal on just over an acre.

"My father and I always wanted to do some farming; he always enjoyed making wine. So we decided to do a vineyard. It gives me an outlet for growing and it gives him and outlet for making wine," Freeborn said. He hopes to have a winery.

Sylvester and her husband, Fred, started planting in 2000, and their winery and tasting room will open June 2.

They planted seven varieties: chardonnay, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot gris and two hybrids: chardonel and traminette. "We based our decisions somewhat on what we like. And and at the time Virginia Tech promoted more chardonnay, because it's easier to grow here. And we liked the red wines, personally."

Their interest in wines and desire to do something related to agriculture also prompted them to go into the wine-making business.

"We started visiting in vineyards in the late '90s and thought we could do this," Sylvester said. Their test pilot, 300 plants, did well, so they kept adding. Now they have 6 acres. The Sylvesters expect to have 500 cases this year, and hope to have 2,500 cases in two years.

Like Margie Wood, Drema Sylvester is the farmer. Their husbands still work in the corporate world.

"I don't miss the politics," said Sylvester, the former erosion and sediment control officer for Bedford County. "The best thing about plants is they don't talk back."