MATT GENTRY The Roanoke Times

Margaret Smith (left) removes a hot dog bun from a steamer as Desaree Skinner watches at Big Oak Chuckwagon. Plans for the business began last year when the family found an old, 1950s-era chuck wagon in Floyd.

The stand boasts items such as hot dogs with all the "fixins'," including chili made from the meat of the family's grass-fed cattle.

MATT GENTRY The Roanoke Times

Desaree Skinner, 17, (center) serves a hot dog as Melissa LaRose (right) stands ready to take customers' cash at the Big Oak Chuckwagon at the intersection of Depot Street and Radford Road in Christiansburg.

| Mary Hardbarger

mary.hardbarger@roanoke.com, 381-1679

CHRISTIANSBURG -- Margaret Smith stood over a Coleman stove Friday afternoon, frequently checking on the food that filled the deep, metal pots.

Steam from the bubbling food wafted over from the canopy-covered cooking area to an adjacent tent where two of Smith's grandsons, Michael and Joshua LaRose, squeezed lemons.

Smith's daughter, Melissa LaRose, was in charge of the customers' cash at the new, family-run roadside vendor at the corner of Depot Street and Radford Road.

Jerry and Margaret Smith of Riner opened Big Oak Chuckwagon LLC at the end of May in an effort to provide healthy, all-American food for customers.

But more importantly, "to be a good learning experience for the grandchildren," said Margaret Smith.

The Smiths are also the owners and operators of the 90-acre Big Oak Farm that has been in the Smith family since the 1800s. There, they tend to a herd of about 20 grass-fed cattle. The organic meat is sold locally and retailed by the cut. It is now also used in the chili served at the roadside business.

The stand boasts a short menu of fresh, organic items including hot dogs with all the "fixins'," slaw from the Smith's chemical-free garden, handmade buns supplied by The Bread Basket in Floyd and cold treats made without high-fructose corn syrup.

They introduced hand-squeezed lemonade to the public Friday and have plans to serve Homestead Creamery ice cream.

According to officials from both the town and the Virginia Department of Health, the business is in compliance with all business and health regulations.

Behind the scenes of the chuck wagon, Margaret Smith prepares everything served on site. From the chopping of onions to the melting of sugar for simple syrup used in the lemonade, the food is prepared from scratch.

"We go the whole nine yards," Margaret Smith said.

Their seven grandchildren, ranging in age from 7 to 17, serve customers and prepare and serve the lemonade.

Plans for the family business began last year when the Smiths found an old, 1950s-era chuck wagon in Floyd.

They spruced it up with a fresh coat of paint and designed a roof for it, among other exhaustive repairs, and started taking it to fairs and events. They later decided they wanted it to be more than just your average "mobile fair stand," Jerry Smith said.

"We wanted to serve healthy food," he said.

The Smiths said they want the chuck wagon to have a Western or "pioneer" vibe. They dress the part, donning bonnets and cowboy hats Friday afternoon, and encourage their grandchildren to do the same.

"It's part showbiz, part art, part money and business," Jerry Smith said.

"We're educators. We've learned to be creative and resourceful."

Their creativity is attracting passers-by interested in the out-of-place stand and the smells coming from it.

Doug Poe of Dublin works across from the vendor at the court services office. He wandered over to the chuck wagon on his lunch break Friday afternoon.

"It's hard to beat," Poe said. "You get your money's worth."

A hot dog with all the fixings and a lemonade costs about $5.

Poe said he's excited to see a food vendor set up close to his employer because "there's not a lot of places to eat on this side of town," he said.

The chuck wagon is set up every Friday and Saturday, weather permitting. The stand opens for business about 11 a.m. and closes about 2 p.m.