Emily Paine Carter

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Capable. Charming. Hardworking. Well-trained. These are just a pinch of the ingredients found in Mary Hoback.

She has ladled her talents into A Pinch of Thyme. The cozy South Salem restaurant had a soft opening in October but officially opened with a ribbon-cutting in February.

Add Old Salem stock to her recipe: She's the daughter of Kitty Hoback and the late Judge Fred Hoback. She's the granddaughter of Louise Hoback, pioneer dance instructor of countless local youths and, even at 97, still a force of nature. Having Salem Mayor Howard Packett's zesty wife, Jane, as godmother is a nice plus, and old friends such as Catherine Chapman Mosley and Greg and Laura Hart are among Mary's fans and customers.

But owner and chef Mary knows the success of her restaurant and catering business will depend on just how fine that food is. If you can stand one more food cliche: The proof is in the pudding -- or in the jambalaya, which my husband and I toted home for a later meal and pronounced yummy.

We also administered my big test order to this breakfast-and-lunch spot: a fried egg, over-medium with nothing too oozing. Perfection.

Persistent Mary also managed to track down Ernie Arthur for guidance in re-creating his famed potato pancakes. Yes, that Ernie, formerly of Ernie's in Roanoke Market Square. In fact, A Pinch of Thyme occupies the small, triangular site of his Salem Ernie's restaurant.

Mary, 43, explained her varied background via e-mail: She is a 1982 Salem High School graduate and received bachelor's degrees in criminal justice and sociology from Roanoke College in 1986. She graduated from the National Center for Paralegal Training in Atlanta in 1989 and was a paralegal in Atlanta until 1994 and in Roanoke at First Union National Bank until 2004. She sold homegrown herbs in Roanoke's farmers market and then launched her catering business in 2004 while also serving as a personal chef. She took a Culinary Business Academy course and a U.S. Food Service safety and sanitation course. She then worked part time for Jim Schaal Catering, where she met Wanda Morgan, now one of her two part-time helpers. Mary also credits her aunt Paula Hoback, who helped her for the restaurant's first three months.

Mary said she has always enjoyed cooking and finally was encouraged by family and friends to turn her "passion into a business."

She also said she can "see the hand of God" at work: Experienced cook Kevin Dion came into the restaurant, and even though he hadn't seen her help-wanted ad, he's now Mary's other part-time helper.

Her scarce free time is spent shopping, planning, bookkeeping, catering and stocking her home woodpile -- there aren't many personal pinches of time for busy Mary.

A Pinch of Thyme: breakfast, 7 to 11 a.m. Monday through Friday; lunch, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. Dine-in, takeout or catered small to medium events. 1501 S. Colorado St. (next to Hammerhead Hardware), Salem. 380-3990. pinchoftime@yahoo.com. Mary's favorites: jambalaya, chili, salads, Mediterranean and seafood dishes.