New chef earns Preston's high marks
Thursday, December 22, 2011
My previous review of Preston’s was probably the most negative one I have given during my short tenure as a restaurant reviewer. However, since that review was published in February, the Inn at Virginia Tech brought in a new head chef, Jason Smith, so I thought I’d give Preston’s another try.
The dinner menu ($8 to $30) is divided into small plates, steaks and chops, and large plates. The small plates, which are indeed very small, range from a single seared scallop to a cheese plate. The steaks and chops feature local beef, lamb chops or lump crab cakes. Finally, the large plates include several seafood platters, fresh fish and a buffalo burger.
Preston’s also offers a slightly less expensive lunch ($8 to $21), a la carte breakfast and Sunday brunch ($8.95).
The food at Preston’s is decadent. hen eating out, I often feel I could reproduce the dish in my own kitchen with effort. That was not the case with Smith’s creations.
Although the small plates were fabulous, it was when I first tasted the potato croquette beside my lamb chops that I guiltily asked myself, “Who are just a little as if Wyou to deserve to eat this kind of food?” The small ball of creamy mashed potatoes was wrapped in the most delicate, crunchy breading
The lamb chops were also wonderful. There is something so aesthetically pleasing about lamb chops presented with that slender chineThe meat was tender enough to be cut with a butter knife and nicely seasoned to heighten the natural flavor of the lamb.
The butternut squash ravioli were packed with fresh fall sweetness, and the al dente ravioli pasta lent the feel of a comforting pierogie rather than an airy Italian dish. The five or so ravioli were arranged in a star pattern over a deep green bed of wilted rainbow chard and dressed with crunchy toasted almonds – perfect for a chilly December evening.
Although the coffee served with our dessert arrived in a smart-looking French press, the flavor was a bit thin, even for decaf. The creme brulee itself, however, was another excellent work of culinary art. The warm, creamy body was topped with the traditional crunchy shell of burnt sugar, charred to just the right amount of bitterness to balance the sweetness of the custard. As with many of life’s pleasures, sometimes the smallest details can add the most enjoyment. Such was the case with the dollop of extraordinarily rich, tantalizing whipped cream served atop the dish.
The portions ideally sized. The appetizers were tiny but packed full of flavor. When paired with the large plates, they provided just enough without leaving us feeling stuffed.
Not only are the flavor combinations at Preston’s perfect, but the techniques used to craft the artistic dishes are superbly mastered. From the unbelievably crisp, paper-thin breading of the croquettes to the perfectly creamy consistency of the creme brulee, the expertise of Chef Smith is apparent in every bite. at Preston’s are bone intact.
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THE ROANOKE TIMES
