Italian classics shine at Mamma’s Pizza

The brains behind Mamma’s Pizza at Lakeside Plaza in Salem belong to Dominic Marletta, who is also the owner of Mamma Maria’s Italian Restaurant in Salem. Mamma’s Pizza is managed by Dominic’s sister, Sonia Marletta, while Anastacio “Nacho” Diaz does the cooking.

The vibe

One wall in the dining room at Mamma’s Pizza is covered with mirrors, which creates the impression that the space is larger than it really is. Customers have the option of seating themselves at the bar, which can accommodate six , or at one of 10 booths in the dining room. Each coral-colored booth accommodates four .

The menu

Mamma’s Pizza offers a variety of Italian classics, including chicken parmigiana, stuffed shells Florentine, baked ziti, pizza , paninis and much more. The price range for sandwiches and entrees is $5.50 to $14.99 , while pizzas run from $6.99 for a small to $19.99 for a Sicilian. Several beers and wines are featured on the menu, along with Coca-Cola products.

The food

On my first visit to Mamma’s Pizza, I decided to try the sausage Napoletana, a dish that featured chopped sausage, plum tomatoes, basil and olive oil tossed with penne pasta ($10.99). My dining partner opted for eggplant parmigiana, described as eggplant slices baked in a tomato sauce, topped with mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses and served with a side of spaghetti ($12.99).

Our attentive server quickly brought our salads and bread to the table. The simple salad of crisp mixed greens, tomatoes, olives and marinated mushrooms was very fresh, and we were so blown away by the olives and mushrooms that we purchased an 8-ounce container for $3.99 . The bread was not appealing, as it was served at room temperature and had a tough interior texture.

My plate of sausage Napoletana was enormous and piping hot. The pasta was cooked perfectly, and the abundance of flavorful sausage played well against the tomatoes, basil and olive oil. This dish was spot on .

To our surprise, the eggplant parmigana was served over the pasta and not on the side ; however, my guest said the dish was delicious. She was pleased with the abundance of gooey cheese and tasty tomato sauce.

On my second visit, I tried Mamma’s small pizza with extra cheese, fresh garlic, Italian sausage, meatballs, pepperoni and mushrooms ($14.99). My companion chose the Mediterranean salad ($7.99) of mixed greens topped with grilled chicken, tomatoes, onions, Kalamata olives, button mushrooms, cucumbers and homemade Italian vinaigrette. I ordered the fried ravioli ($5.50) as an appetizer.

The ravioli, which had a nice bread crumb crust and were filled with melted ricotta cheese, came with a bowl of marinara for dipping. Although not made in-house , these little fried morsels were a delightful snack . When our entrees arrived, I was very pleased to see a nice pizza crust and toppings loaded with melted mozzarella . My first bite revealed a tender crust that supported the abundance of toppings very well. This delicious pizza reminded me of some of the pies I had while visiting New York two years ago.

My dining partner raved about the freshness of her salad and the tender, flavorful chunks of chicken scattered on top . She also enjoyed the bold flavors of the Italian vinaigrette.

Not to be picky, but ...

On our second visit, we noticed tables and seat bottoms that had not been cleared of crumbs, as well as some napkins on the floor . The friendly wait staff needs to be more thorough when cleaning tables.

The bottom line

Diaz is cranking out some really good Italian fare in a modest location. If the urge for Italian cuisine hits you , I suggest satisfying it at Mamma’s Pizza. You will not be let down.

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