Oddfella’s Cantina is rich with country charm

When we stepped off the sidewalk, through the rickety screen door and into the cozy dining room at Oddfella’s Cantina , we were embraced by a warm welcome and surrounded by the eclectic country atmosphere that is Floyd .

A corner stage for homespun music dominates the roomful of whimsical tables and chairs while artwork hangs on the wood-paneled walls. The comfortable feeling of the room increased our anticipation of the culinary surprises to come.

Owners Julie Arrington and Kerry Underwood have devoted their establishment to being earth-friendly by supporting local farmers and recycling everything possible. They describe their cuisine as Appalachian-Latino, so don’t expect traditional fare.

Sunday brunch can be eggs and bacon, but it can also be honey-lime chicken or perhaps French toast made with homemade bread and real maple syrup . Huevos rancheros or the tofu scrambler — sauteed tofu with spinach ­— might steer you away from the buttermilk pancakes or the breakfast burrito. Sipping the coffee is a treat in itself.

The bacon, egg and cheese sandwich wasn’t a disappointment. The homemade bread made this breakfast cliche a little special. The home fries could have been crispier and better seasoned; however, Sunday brunch with good friends can overcome small shortcomings.

Drinks at Oddfella’s Cantina are served in Mason jars, a quaint touch that reminded us of how far off the beaten path we were . The beer selection is small but includes only fine craft brews. It is one of the few places where you can enjoy a true porter-style beer (St. George ).

Dinner offers more choices and slightly higher prices.

Appetizers range from $8.50 for the chili relleno to $10 for mussels and clams in tomato broth. The chili relleno is a gorgeous, flash-fried and stuffed poblano pepper that satisfies the lover of spic y foods and fine cheese.

Salads are made with local organic greens; the soup of the day changes with the harvest.

Chimichangas can be prepared with the diner’s choice of tofu or all-natural local beef ($12 ). They are generous in size, and the pico de gallo is wonderfully fresh.

Shrimp and chorizo ($20 ), served with a slightly sweet vegetable mix and rice, featured a generous amount of chorizo and teased our taste buds with savory heat. The shrimp in the dish were cooked perfectly and nicely complemented the sausage .

A standout choice is the pork loin with sherry peaches ($19 ). The large cut of pork was nicely seasoned and tender throughout , and the sweetness of the peaches made for a nice pairing. The presentation is an eyeful, and the dish tastes as good as it looks.

Other choices include pan-seared scallops ($21 ), a Black Angus ribeye ($24 ) and pecan tofu ($14 ).

After the main course, you will likely push yourself away from the table feeling satisfied, but don’t pass up the hummingbird cake for dessert. This triple-layer cake with cream-cheese frosting is full of nuts, pineapple and bananas, and you won’t leave a crumb on the plate. It is the epitome of home baked goodness.

Oddfella’s Cantina should earn your support because of their commitment to local farmers and recycling, but they will earn your support because they know how to cook good food.

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