Lebanese flavors star at well-run Cedars

A few years ago, while living in Washington , I enjoyed frequenting a small Lebanese tavern close to my home. Friends and I would spend evenings drinking wine and sampling small plates filled with spiced meats, stuffed grape leaves and savory feta. After moving, I thought such visits would be reserved for weekend getaways, but I was pleased to discover a new Lebanese restaurant in downtown Roanoke .

On a recent weekday, I took my parents and a date to Cedars for lunch. The four of us were invited to take any table in the house and were quickly greeted by our server.

To start, we ordered the hummus with shawarma appetizer ($6 ). Shawarma refers to ground lamb, beef, or chicken that has been molded around a vertical rotating roaster, which slowly cooks the meat and allows slices to be shaved off as it turns. The creamy hummus arrived in a small bowl, topped with thinly sliced beef . The bright, lemony flavor of the hummus paired well with the succulent meat, which we eagerly scooped up using slices of pita that accompanied the dish.

For entrees, we decided on a variety of wraps, which are served with tabbouleh or french fries. Tabbouleh is a salad comprising parsley, onions, tomatoes and bulghur wheat, blended with olive oil and lemon juice. My date chose the chicken shawarma ($6.75), I opted for the lamb kebab ($9.75), and both my parents decided on beef shawarma ($6.75). We all chose tabbouleh salad except my father, who ordered fries.

Each wrap had our chosen meats enclosed in a thin pita and wrapped in parchment paper for easy handling. The beef shawarmas were topped with lettuce and tahini (a sauce made from ground sesame seeds), while the chicken shawarma was topped with tomatoes, pickles and garlic sauce. My lamb kebab was accompanied by onions, tomatoes, and a thin layer of hummus.

The lemon juice and olive oil paired perfectly with the parsley and vegetables in the tabbouleh, creating a nice balance to our meat-filled entrees. Popular to Lebanese cooking, fresh parsley and mint were prominent throughout each of our dishes, but not overpowering. The meats were particularly juicy, with my favorite being the large chunks of lamb that came in my wrap. I had ordered them cooked to medium, and they were. Before leaving, we ordered two pieces of baklawa (the Lebanese version of the Greek baklava) to go ($1.50). The dessert was moist without being overly oily, and the light, flaky texture held up well against the nutty richness of the chopped pistachios sprinkled on top.

My date and I returned to Cedars the following week for a more relaxed dinner. Again, we were welcomed to take our choice of tables and opted for a glass of house merlot ($5 ) and a Devil’s Backbone Oktoberfest, which was featured on draught ($5 ).

This time we started with the cheese sambousek appetizer ($4 ) and opted for the combination kebab platter for two ($26) as our entree. These small, crescent-shaped hand pies consist of golden-brown dough filled with feta cheese, diced onions and chopped parsley . They were light and delicious, with salty feta mingling nicely with fresh parsley.

We enjoyed our drinks while waiting for the entree, admiring the lovely pictures of Lebanese landmarks and soft music playing in the background.

During both of our visits, we felt the food took long enough to arrive to tell us it was being freshly prepared, but the arrival was timely enough to show each order is important. Throughout our visit, the server and owner consistently checked on patrons, refilled drinks and made friendly conversation, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere.

The large platter arrived beautifully plated, with five meats atop a bed of pita bread and chopped tomatoes. The four large chunks of lamb kebab were again perfectly cooked to our medium request.

Next came two chicken items — shish taouk, large cubes of marinated grilled chicken, and chicken kebab, ground chicken mixed with onion and parsley and formed into a long sausage-like shape. The ground chicken was especially moist and had a deliciously velvety texture. The last two items included a small dish of sliced beef shawarma and beef kafta, grilled ground beef mixed with parsley, onions and a variety of spices. Each paired well with a side of rice and two small glass ramekins of garlic sauce and tahini sauce for dipping.

We enjoyed being able to sample so many items in one sitting, especially with such a variety of textures and spices. Upon polishing off the last of the lamb, we agreed that the quality of food for such a reasonable price could easily make Cedars one of our new regular lunch or dinner spots.

Whether you love Middle Eastern foods or are just looking to try something new, Cedars delivers an exceptional dining experience in a welcoming atmosphere.

Food is prepared fresh and cooked to order, seasoned to perfection, and delivered by a staff that seems genuinely excited to introduce their customers to family recipes.

With a menu evenly balanced between succulent meats and enticing vegetarian options, everyone is sure to find something satisfying.

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