Review: Cafe Mekong dishes up the flavor

Wedged between eclectic Oasis Food Market and the all-American Famous Anthony’s restaurant in Blacksburg sits a New River Valley treasure, Cafe Mekong. Cafe Mekong’s name comes from the Mekong River, the waterway that separates Laos and Thailand. This geographical landmark inspires the cafe’s fare.

The menu at Cafe Mekong has changed since it was last reviewed, so I decided to check it out.

On a summer Friday afternoon, I met my dining companions outside the restaurant. They held up their waiting-list “buzzer,” reporting that it was packed inside with a fifteen-minute wait. I found it hard to believe any Blacksburg restaurant could be jammed in the summer, so I peeked inside for myself to see every seat filled.

After an abbreviated wait of five minutes, we were seated inside the simple, clean cafe. A quick scan of the dining crowd indicated Cafe Mekong is a popular spot for businessmen, college students, and even families.

My companions and I started with the papaya salad ($4.95) and the Chinese broccoli (4.95). The menu describes each dish with great detail, which is helpful to diners not well versed in Thai or Vietnamese food. The large papaya salad boasted julienned green papaya, carrots, cilantro, tomato and peanuts tossed in a chili-lime dressing. The papaya offered the right amount of crunch and the dish had a spicy kick, so I chased it with two glasses of water.

The Chinese broccoli is available steamed with oyster sauce or stir-fried with garlic. I opted for the garlic and never looked back. The broccoli had a great texture, combining soft leaves with firm stalks, and an even better salty, garlicky flavor . Lunch diners should be wary of garlic breath , but I argue the taste is worth the risk of being noticed by your officemates.

We tore into our entrees, ready to experience more Mekong flavor. My friend, a vegetarian, remarked that her pad Thai with tofu ($8.49) was delicious but quite spicy. A dish’s degree of spice can be adjusted upon request (she ordered medium), but generally this type of fare is pretty fiery.

My other dining partner and I enjoyed the massaman (yellow) curry with chicken (lunch portion, $7.95). This was a large dish filled with potatoes, onion, carrots, and coconut milk spiced with yellow curry and topped with roasted peanuts. The chicken was thinly sliced and lightly sauteed. I’m fond of coconut milk and this dish did not disappoint; its sauce perfectly married the tangy lime with the smooth coconut milk, creating the ideal broth for dunking the side of white rice. The peanuts added a nice crunch over the texture of the softer vegetables. I was pleased that this dish was light, given the generous portion.

We enjoyed the hustle of the lunch hour and found our waiter to be satisfactory. Between our conversation and our food, we were completely consumed at our tiny table.

On my next visit , I revisited the Chinese-style broccoli ($4.95), but this time I ordered it steamed with oyster sauce. For my main entree, I ventured to the summer specials and ordered local squash and basil stir fry ($9.99). Again, the broccoli had wonderful flavor and texture. I was worried the oyster sauce would bring an aggressive fishy flavor, but my fears were unwarranted. My entrée was filled with fresh squash, zucchini and basil, as well as sliced beef. I found the dish flavorful but salty.

I chose water during both of my visits, but the beverage selection at Café Mekong is nonetheless broad, from Thai iced tea to a Dogfish Head IPA. . I’m eager to try some ginger beer during my next visit to Café Mekong. Trust me, there will be many more .

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