Review: Abrakababra is a small spot with big flavor

The old saying “good things come in small packages” certainly fits Abrakababra, a Greek and Mediterranean take-out restaurant that opened in Salem in November.

Abrakababra is located at the intersection of Apperson Drive and Colorado Street, in the same red brick building that houses Hammerhead Hardware. The blue “GYROS” banner outside the door makes it easier to spot this tiny place, and leaves no doubt as to the star of the menu.

My first visit to Abrakababra was to pick up lunch after a walk with my dog on the nearby greenway. I was lucky to get a parking place in the small gravel area around the side of the building. Inside, there is an open kitchen, a short counter with four stools, a cooler with bottled drinks, and a self-serve sandwich toppings bar — that’s it.

It’s nice to be able to take a seat and watch as your food is prepared. The owner, Youssef Saleh, is friendly and welcoming, and happy to answer questions about the food. If you do choose to eat in and other customers arrive to place orders, you may feel crowded. There is a picnic table outside near the parking area, which is a nice option in cooler weather.

I ordered a gyro ($5.99) and, for dessert, a piece of baklava ($3.45). A gyro starts with ground, seasoned lamb roasted on a spit. Slices are carved off the loaf and served on pita bread with a cucumber and yogurt sauce called tzatziki.

At Abrakababra, they put the meat and sauce in a warmed pita pocket, and customers may dress up the gyro from the toppings bar. When I visited, the bar offered chickpeas, cucumber salad and olives in addition to the usual lettuce, tomato and onions. I added lettuce and cucumber, which left just enough room for a few olives.

Back at home, I dug into my sandwich, enjoying the contrast of the cool crisp veggies and the warm, savory lamb. There was such a generous amount of the rich, garlicky tzatziki sauce that I scraped some off so it wouldn’t overshadow the delicious flavor of the meat. Baklava is a classic Greek pastry made with layers of phyllo dough and nuts. I was pleased that this baklava was not as syrupy sweet as some I’ve had, and there was a generous amount of walnut filling. However, the phyllo was a bit damp and chewy .

My next meal from Abrakababra was dinner that I picked up to share with a friend. We split a falafel pita ($5.99) and a chicken gyro ($5.99). The chicken gyro features a marinated chicken breast that is cooked on the flat grill. The deep-fried falafel balls are made from ground fava beans, fresh herbs and scallions . I remembered to ask for less tzatziki sauce, which made for a better balance with the flavor of the chicken and the falafel.

Each pita sandwich at Abrakababra is served in a short, cut-off white paper bag. I certainly support minimal packaging, but a plate or plastic container would make it easier to take advantage of those tempting toppings. I did manage to squeeze some of the marinated eggplant onto our sandwiches. Flavored with olive oil and garlic, it melted in our mouths.

In addition to sandwiches, Abrakababra offers large salads ($8.25) topped with the same lamb or chicken as the gyros and served with an excellent Greek vinaigrette flavored with oregano and crumbled feta cheese. Diners also have the option of ordering a lamb or chicken “special” ($8.25) with a small salad and rice.

When I tried the lamb special , I saw no lamb turning on the spit, so the meat had been previously carved and kept warm. While it was still good, it was not as juicy and flavorful as when it was carved to order. On the positive side, the special is served in a large Styrofoam container, so I finally got to load up on those toppings to my heart’s content.

Abrakababra may be a small place, but they’re packing big flavors into their authentic, affordable Mediterranean food.

Weather Journal

2 days ago

1. Britney Spears spotted at Lynchburg restaurant

2. One person injured in Friday night shooting in Roanoke

3. East Carolina poses new challenge for Virginia Tech football 

4. Roanoke resource officer's quick action saved young girl

5. Lowe's tapes may hold clues to Roanoke woman's death

6. William Byrd stuns Salem in football win

7. Roanoke County electrical short quiets 5 Wheeler radio stations

8. Captive in Roanoke County describes harrowing time with angry friend

9. Concert review: Timeless Willie Nelson plays to appreciative crowd

10. History says this one will matter for Virginia Tech