Review: Roanoke’s newest Fork sticks to the standards

Those who frequent dining establishments in and around Roanoke are probably familiar with the Fork restaurants — a string of three local eateries that dot the Roanoke landscape and feature items such as brick-oven pizzas, hot dogs, burgers and salads .

The flagship location, Fork in the Alley, can be found in south Roanoke, while the second, Fork in the City, is located at Sixth Street and Marshall Avenue. In April 2012 , the Fork franchise extended a prong into the newly renovated Roanoke City Market Building.

Fork in the Market offers a slightly smaller menu than its sister spots but provides many of the same classic items that patrons have come to expect .

My first trip to Fork in the Market took place after work, the night before the long July 4th weekend began. The Market Building patios buzzed with people looking to get an early jump on their mid-summer holiday.

My friend and I decided to stop in for a quick dinner , opting to sit outside to take advantage of the nice weather . Like the City and Alley locations, the Market site offers a comfortable spot for outdoor dining .

Our server was attentive, taking care of several tables outside, and both our food and drinks were delivered a timely manner. This attention was nice , especially considering that I’ve had several conversations with friends and acquaintances regarding service problems at the other Forks (particularly at Fork in the City ).

After a quick review of the menu, I selected a brick-oven pizza ($12.95), an item I’ve always found to be a safe selection at any Fork location. I chose a classic combination of pepperoni, mushroom, sausage, and olives. It arrived to the table hot and crisp, although surprisingly bland considering the toppings. On the plus side, it was large enough that I could take a few slices home.

My friend went with one of the many specialty burgers on the menu, topped with jalapenos, pickle relish and pimento cheese ($8.50). When asked how he wanted the burger cooked, he requested medium. It arrived overcooked, but the flavors from the spicy peppers and pimento cheese melded nicely in the soft potato bun. His side order of fries was crispy and well-seasoned.

For our second trip to Fork in the Market, my date and I wanted to try something a little different from the standard “fork fare,” so we made our way to the Market Building on a late Sunday morning for brunch. Fork in the Market is the only Fork location that serves brunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. .

We arrived just before noon and found ourselves to be the only customers in the place. The brunch menu is small, offering only about seven dishes . Many of the items include standard breakfast classics — such as bacon, eggs, and sausage — arranged in different ways. Other options include a burger ($8.50) and eggs Benedict ($7.95). While going over the options, I noticed there was no sweet brunch dish, such as pancakes or waffles, and the huevos rancheros offered at the other locations is missing.

My date opted for the breakfast wrap ($7.99), a grilled tortilla filled with bacon, eggs, green peppers, lettuce, onions and guacamole, and served with a side of toast. I ordered “The Cure All” ($8.99) with two eggs cooked over hard, a side of bacon, home fries, and toast.

When the food arrived a short time later, it was nicely plated but my eggs were over easy. The waitress was quick to take them back and replaced them within a few minutes. The home fries were freshly prepared, crispy and mixed with grilled red peppers and onions, and the generous side of bacon was perfectly cooked.

My date’s wrap was tasty, but we both found it strange for a burrito to not contain cheese. The toast turned out to be thinly grilled slices of white bread, which we enjoyed. We received butter and jam for the toast only after we requested it.

One shouldn’t expect too many surprises from Fork in the Market’s menu, but it does deliver the same classic and dependable options that have become signatures of the Fork franchise. The brunch menu might not offer the same creativity and variety as other brunch spots in town, but it is a satisfying option at an affordable price.

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