Review: Jim’s offers tasty, solid roadside fare

Longtime residents of the New River Valley may remember the “old” Cloyd’s Mountain Road, a twisted stretch of asphalt that made Virginia 100 seem like a near-certain death trap. In the late 1990s the mountain received a face-lift that changed the entire landscape and straightened out those tight turns. One landmark that survived the massive road project was Jim’s Drive-Inn .

The drive-in is nestled at the base of Cloyd’s mountain. The concrete block building is painted with faded turquoise trim that gives the restaurant a nostalgic roadside feel. The term “drive-in” applies to Jim’s only in the loosest sense. Diners “drive in” to park their cars, but must walk inside to place their orders.

Inside the diner, handwritten menus on white poster board hang from the windows . The handwriting has faded from sunlight, creating a sense that this is a place time has forgotten. A few booths and tables line the narrow front room for customers who choose to dine in, but all orders are prepared to-go all the same .

Jim and Libby Fleshman own the restaurant, as well as the food and gas market next door. Libby Fleshman is the sole cook and waitress at the restaurant and she plays both roles well.

The selection at the restaurant is impressive given the small space and even smaller staff.

Jim’s menu has multiple categories, including breakfast, dinners and pizza . The breakfast section has a little bit of everything, from pancakes ($2 ) and sausage-and-egg sandwiches ($2.30) to a variety of breakfast plates served with toast. Breakfast is available all day.

Pizzas are available in two sizes, 12-inch (starts at $4.95) and 16-inch (starts at $6.55). Pepperoni, hamburger, sausage, and cheese are available for toppings, with additional toppings ringing up a little extra.

For lunch or dinner, customers choose from many different hamburger and sandwich options. Each dinner plate comes with a choice of french fries, cole slaw, or rolls. Finally, there is a section of the menu with a more a-la-carte presentation that includes ham and cheese sandwiches ($2.15) and country ham biscuits ($2.70). Milkshakes ($2), floats ($2) and ice cream ($1.50) are also available.

Oddly, Jim’s doesn’t always serve drinks. Instead, customers are encouraged to walk next door and pick up a Coke or Sprite at the gas station.

While I waited on my order, I read a bulletin board at Jim’s and watched a half-dozen customers shuffle in to pick up orders they had phoned in. When Libby Fleshman called for me, I left the claw machine I was trying to conquer to pay for my order. I was giddy over the affordability of the fare and decided to take my food with me like the rest of the diners. Each item was carefully wrapped in white paper and placed in a white paper bag , so the simple presentation was consistent with the drive-in atmosphere.

The cheeseburger featured a nice, thick patty of fresh beef . It was so tasty that I inhaled it in the car.

The country ham sandwich, consisting of a generous portion of salty country ham wedged between two slices of white bread, was basic but good. I could feel my cholesterol count skyrocketing, but when food is this good, simple, and cheap, I find it hard to stop.

My only complaint was that the crinkle-cut french fries needed salt , but after the country ham it might be a good idea to forgo the additional sodium intake anyway.

On my next visit to Jim’s I grabbed a chicken tender sandwich and fries. The chicken tasted hand-breaded with a thin, golden coating . Again, I was pleased with this tasty and affordable no-frills meal.

With its concrete floors, outside-entrance bathrooms and sparse seating, Jim’s is down-home in every sense of the word. It’s the perfect stop for a quick burger (Note: Farley Memorial Wayside just across the county line in Giles would be a great spot to picnic with your meal from Jim’s).

Just remember when you adventure over the mountain for a burger that this is a one-person show. Do not expect fast food, but do expect a satisfying meal for the price.

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