Pho Saigon is appealing to Vietnamese newbies
Surroundings and service give Pho Saigon a leg up on its competition
Thursday, October 4, 2012
A few weeks ago, I reviewed Pho Vietnam, one of two Vietnamese restaurants that opened recently in Roanoke. I have since visited the second, Pho Saigon, which offers many of the same dishes and makes it easy to compare the two. Though there are good dishes to be found on both menus, Pho Saigon’s surroundings and service give it a leg up.
The vibe
Despite its location in a strip shopping center, there could be no sharper contrast between the two restaurants’ interiors. The splendid combination of polished wood laminate floors, avocado walls and tasteful decorations at Pho Saigon offers a rich, inviting dining environment. The seating area is cozy without being cramped. On both visits several other tables were occupied, but noise was never a problem.
The food
With an eye toward comparison , I ordered the same dishes at Pho Saigon that I tasted at Pho Vietnam: spring rolls, rice noodle salad and the beef noodle soup called pho (pronounced “fuh”).
While the spring rolls ($3.50) with shrimp, rice noodles, cilantro and peanut sauce compared favorably at both restaurants, the barbecue pork spring rolls at Pho Vietnam were superior.
At Pho Saigon, my favorite Vietnamese dish — a rice noodle salad — contained bean sprouts, julienned cucumber, diakon radish, carrots, cilantro and basil for $8.99. Like the other restaurant’s version, it was also accompanied by a wonderful honey sauce.
Besides the standard noodle salad topped with grilled pork, however, I ordered a combination of pork and grilled shrimp, an option I had not previously seen . Unfortunately, while the substantial portion of marinated grilled pork was superb, the shell-on shrimp were, once peeled, as tough as shoe leather.
Pho Saigon serves the noodles in its salad at a considerably hotter temperature than Pho Vietnam, and although both restaurants serve competent versions of this dish, I prefer the latter’s version overall.
On the other hand, I found the beef brisket pho ($8.88) at Pho Saigon superior. The broth was slightly more flavorful and the beef leaner. Because many Roanokers might not be experienced with pho, I really like the way the menu categorizes the dish into three options: “pho noodle soup for the beginners,” “just the regular” and “the adventurer’s choice.” The soup for beginners focuses on lean meats such as beef brisket and top round while the “adventurous” category includes proteins such as tendon and tripe.
The grilled pork at Pho Saigon has an amazing flavor — sweet with a hint of smoky grilled taste. The owner would not divulge any marinade ingredients except lemongrass. My friend found a way to enjoy the pork by ordering a simple plate of it served with rice ($8.50).
Pho Saigon also offers numerous flavors of the trendy bubble tea, a fruit-flavored concoction whose signature is the presence of gelatinous tapioca pearls. I had never tried one and opted for a coconut version that, in consistency and taste, reminded me of the pina coladas I used to love getting as a kid at Orange Julius at Crossroads Mall . Those who are put off by the texture of the pearls can have the drink prepared without them.
The service
Our excellent waiter (who turned out to be a co-owner) provided pleasant and efficient service during lunch and dinner that far exceeded my experience at Pho Vietnam. Another nice touch: Both chopsticks and forks are provided on each table.
The bottom line
For those who have not experienced Vietnamese food, Pho Saigon offers a good opportunity to try it. Between the two Vietnamese restaurants in town, Pho Saigon provides a more polished experience that will be particularly appealing to newbies. However, the food is competently prepared at both.
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THE ROANOKE TIMES
