Exploring Roanoke's ethnic markets

In the summer of 2008, I toured ethnic markets in the Roanoke and New River valleys for a four-part series. Years later, I still have fond memories of that assignment because I found such friendly people and fascinating food.

If I hadn’t done that story, I never would have learned that products such as coconut milk and curry powder can be had at a fairer price than what grocery stores charge. I wouldn’t have found Thai basil and lime leaves, which turn decent homemade Thai dishes into restaurant-quality Thai dishes.

Most importantly, I wouldn’t have experienced the richness and diversity of our community.

When I decided recently to update my list of markets, I expected to find that many of the places profiled five years ago had closed. I was wrong. Most of the businesses still are running strong, while new markets have hit the scene.

Last week, I toured five stores that were new to me. It is no accident that all of these markets are on Williamson Road — although nice ethnic markets are located elsewhere, Williamson Road (U.S. 11) is truly the main street of diversity in Southwest Virginia. Within a few miles on that thoroughfare, shoppers can find several Latino groceries, Middle Eastern markets and Asian shops.

The atmosphere in these markets varies from dark and crowded to bright and airy, but all of the owners are hard working people who want to help shoppers find what they need. If you speak only English, you may encounter a language barrier at some of these stores, but don’t let that hold you back. Be friendly and patient, and you’ll find what you seek — plus so much more.

See the infobox on this page for a (nearly) complete list of ethnic markets in the Roanoke and New River valleys. I’m sure I’ve missed some markets, so if you catch an omission, please call me at 981-3343 or email me at lindsey.nair@roanoke.com.

Have fun exploring! I sure did.

Carniceria Lily

1525 Williamson Road, Roanoke | 540-808-4410

Robert Cruz told me his mother, Maria Cruz, opened this Latino market in August 2008. It is a humble little place with a homemade sign outside and colorful pinatas crowding the ceiling inside.

The most interesting feature here is the meat counter, which is located in the rear and is manned by a butcher. Through the shiny glass case, customers can see products that range from chicken feet to pre-marinated and seasoned flank steak and chicken wings. Robert said the pre-seasoned meat is the store’s best-selling item .

Other products sold at Carniceria Lily include queso fresco (fresh cheese), chorizo, tortillas, dried beans, rice and a plethora of canned goods. It has a small selection of produce that includes tomatillos and cactus, as well as more typical veggies such as tomatoes, onions and peppers.

Standard convenience store snack foods round out the selection here.

Saigon Market Fresh Oriental

2501 Williamson Road, Roanoke | 562-8550

This Asian market, located in a space that used to house Fresh Oriental Market, opened in July. The owner is Brianna Dang, who is originally from Vietnam but moved to Roanoke almost 20 years ago.

Dang’s two children, Oliver Ho, 20, and Rebecca Ho, 15, help out at the store.

Saigon Market offers many of the ingredients for Asian cuisine that can be found at similar markets, such as noodles, sauces, dried mushrooms, meal mixes and some produce. Dang seems to pride herself the most on the large selection of frozen seafood, which includes shrimp, clam meat and whole red snapper fish. In season, she also carries fresh seafood, including blue crabs.

With friendly service and such interesting products as Thai tea and sweet potato noodles, Saigon Market is a must-visit for any adventurous cook.

A&E Mini Mart

2817 Williamson Road, Roanoke | 562-8966

Elias Chehade and his wife, Aida, opened this tiny market in August, but they have lived in Roanoke for 10 years. They are originally from Lebanon and the market is named for their first initials.

A&E may be “mini,” but it has a lot to offer in terms of Mediterranean food products. This is where you’ll find grape leaves, rose water, orange blossom water, dried beans, bulger wheat, dates, pickled eggplant and fig marmalade. Many of the specialty products are picked up from Washington, D.C., or New York.

Aida Chehade is a good cook and will sell homemade hummus, meat pies, spinach pies, baklava and more if it is ordered in advance. If all goes well with the store, Elias said, he wants to open a Lebanese deli so more people can enjoy his wife’s food.

Baghdad Market

3623 Williamson Road, Roanoke | 563-3779

This store in the former post office on Williamson Road has been open for seven months. Prior to that, owner Farooq Khaleel , a native of Iraq, had a similar store located across the street. It was called Blue Nile, and it was open for three years.

The new location offers more space — so much that it may feel a little barren when you first walk in. That’s how I almost missed the six large freezers positioned against the walls. That would have been a shame, because they’re packed with halal meat, one of the store’s best-selling items.

Halal means the animals were butchered in a manner that is sanctioned by Islamic law. The meat options include chicken breasts and wings, as well as lamb legs and shoulders (bone-in and boneless).

The rest of the store is stocked with typical Mediterranean and Middle Eastern ingredients such as refrigerated phyllo dough, sesame seeds, tea, dried beans, nuts and ghee (a type of clarified butter). If you’re feeling more adventurous, you may wish to check out the Mediterranean sesame fudge or preserved lemons.

La Esquina Latina & Dollar Items

4117 Williamson Road, Roanoke | 540-904-7259

Victor Velasquez opened this Latino grocery store with his wife, Ilda Romero, and brother-in-law, Jose-Rene Romero, about three years ago. They are originally from Honduras but have lived in Roanoke for 12 years.

Their store is bright, clean and well organized. As the name indicates, it offers both ethnic food products and dollar items, which are a mix of familiar American brands and Latino goods. In addition , the store has household items, health and beauty products, home decor and greeting cards.

La Esquina Latina has a wide selection of breads, pastries and cookies on the first aisle. Looking for bread to make a torta, the Mexican sandwich? Check here.

The produce section includes plantains, ginger, malanga (a tuber) and yuca (another tuber). Many varieties of dried chiles are sold in packages or in bulk, and the store has a large assortment of spices that are far less expensive than grocery-store spices.

In the freezers and refrigerators, you’ll find fruit Popsicles, cheeses, Guatemalan and Honduran cream, chorizo, banana leaves and frozen fruit pulp, including mango and pineapple.

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