Mia Cuneo The Roanoke Times

Philly Cheese Steak is served with potato salad, pickle and Baby Bakes at MK's Gourmet Pizzeria and Shoppe in Dublin. The Baby Bakes are an alternative to fries: whole new potatoes are boiled and then deep-fried. The result feels light but retains the essense of the fry.

Every time I head out to Claytor Lake for a day at the beach, I would notice the sign for MK's Gourmet Pizzeria and Shoppe just off Interstate 81 and wonder how the place stacks up.

I always thought it would make for a great stop for a brew and some grub after a day at the lake.

I had been planning to write a review of MK's sometime nearer to the Claytor Lake on-season but recently found myself south of Blacksburg on I-81 and decided to pop in for a visit.

I was a bit surprised at how much smaller the restaurant appears from the inside.

The place is divided among a country-store-type area -- think Virginia peanuts and wine, Hokie memorabilia and handmade snacks -- the actual dining area and an open kitchen with a massive brick oven.

The oven, which operates on a combination of gas, electric and wood fire, depending on heating needs, was imported from Texas and forms a nice focal point of the kitchen.

We opened our meal with Pig Twigs -- mini pork shanks deep-fried on the bone with a side of teriyaki dipping sauce.

We were all very impressed with the appetizer. The pork has a slightly crusty exterior and a melt-in-your mouth tenderness on the inside. An order of Pig Twigs, coupled with one of the many beers offered, would make for a great refill after a day of baking on the sand at the lake.

We also ordered an RDW Cuban sandwich, consisting of several huge pork tenderloin slices, Swiss, ham, pickles and spicy mustard atop two thick slabs of Italian bread.

I found the pork a bit dry and the size of the sandwich somewhat unmanageable. The flavor of the pork paired very well with the thick, crunchy pickle slices and mustard, but the bread was a little too soggy to pick the sandwich up.

The Cuban came with a side of Baby Bakes -- a creative alternative to french fries. Whole new potatoes are boiled and then deep-fried. The result is something that feels light but retains the essence of french fries.

The specialty brick-oven pizza selection is extensive, with choices such as barbecue chicken and The Whole Lake, which has a little of everything on it.

We settled on an MK's favorite: seasoned ricotta with banana peppers, mozzarella and feta. The banana peppers brightened the unmistakable flavors of the ricotta and feta. Our pie was a bit overtopped, and so the crust was a little limp toward the center.

The service at our visit was friendly and very fast. Our server's anticipation of our needs, and those of our children, made for a carefree dining experience.

With a wide pizzeria-style menu and a solid selection of beer, it is no wonder that MK's often has a two-hour wait for dinner in the summer. (Call your order in ahead of time to beat the crowds.)