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Thursday, February 24, 2011

Dining review: Modest digs, bold flavors at Crab Creek

Tequila shrimp at Crab Creek is among the seafood dishes that pushes the restaurant far beyond cliche chain fare. And if you have a hankerin' for key lime pie (below), pull up a chair—it's the restaurant's sole dessert.

Photos by MIA CUNEO The Roanoke Times

Tequila shrimp at Crab Creek is among the seafood dishes that pushes the restaurant far beyond cliche chain fare. And if you have a hankerin' for key lime pie (below), pull up a chair—it's the restaurant's sole dessert.

Tequila shrimp at Crab Creek is among the seafood dishes that pushes the restaurant far beyond cliche chain fare. And if you have a hankerin' for key lime pie (below), pull up a chair—it's the restaurant's sole dessert.

Photos by MIA CUNEO The Roanoke Times

Tequila shrimp at Crab Creek is among the seafood dishes that pushes the restaurant far beyond cliche chain fare. And if you have a hankerin' for key lime pie (below), pull up a chair—it's the restaurant's sole dessert.

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There really is a Crab Creek that runs through Montgomery County and there really is a seafood restaurant named Crab Creek in Christiansburg.

Located on Radford Street in what was once a fast-food joint, you have probably driven by dozens of times and never noticed.

Maybe you just couldn't believe that the strange-looking little building with a lighthouse out front could have great seafood.

But, in a world saturated with chain restaurants Crab Creek's owner and chef, Ed, works diligently in his kitchen and serves up some delicious seafood.

Sparse on decorations but brimming with friendly service, this restaurant dares to do some things differently. A fireplace keeps you warm once you come in from the cold, and once seated, you are given a complimentary basket of french fries and hush puppies -- pretty good ones, too.

Coleslaw with seafood is a given, but Ed's recipe is boldly sweet with a little Asian flair and it makes you want to keep taking bites of it.

An appetizer of note is the crab chips ($7.95). Similar to crispy flour tortilla chips, generously seasoned with spices reminiscent of Old Bay, and totally deserving of the hot crab and cheese dip that comes with them, they are just one of the tasty ways to start your meal.

Cajun tuna chunks ($7.95) are bite-size, cooked perfectly, and ready to be dipped in a spicy mustard sauce.

Proof the food is cooked to order, the menu tells you to be patient and prepare to wait 20 to 25 minutes for your entree.

Entrees are served with your choice of two sides, which include the tasty coleslaw or a side salad, baked potato, steamed vegetables, mac and cheese, pasta or fries.

A New York strip steak is available for meat lovers, but the harvest of the sea are the stars of this menu. The shrimp scampi ($11.95) served over angel hair pasta is delicately seasoned and satisfies the shrimp lover.

Several diners hailed the sauteed blue crab ($10.95) as some of the best they had ever eaten, and they were from Florida. Crab-stuffed shrimp ($11.95) tastes as good as it looks.

The wait is worth it. You can add a crab cake, a crab leg cluster, or a half-pound of steamed shrimp to any entree for $5.95.

For those who just want to sit and crack open crab legs or peel shrimp, you can have it by the pound. If you are in the mood for breaded seafood, the coconut shrimp is crispy, or build your own combination plate with oysters, fish, shrimp and scallops.

Flounder, tilapia, catfish, tuna and salmon are available broiled, grilled, blackened, or pan-fried ($11.95). Reasonable prices for fresh seafood, prepared as you order, and the result is a fine meal.

A shortcoming of Crab Creek is the very short dessert menu. There is only one choice, a very tangy slice of Key lime pie. It's a sweet way to end the meal, but not everyone cares for the jolt of good Key lime pie.

Don't let the modest building keep you from enjoying some good seafood.

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