A double cheesburger, fries and a milkshake at The Fried Pickle. Josh Meltzer | The Roanoke Times

Any time is party time at the Fried Pickle. Even on an ordinary day - when there's no Elvis impersonator or classic car cruise-in or live outdoor music - the place jumps with enthusiasm. That's just the way Art Pursell, one of the seven owners, envisioned the place. Their goals are to provide a lighthearted environment and tasty food.

THE VIBE

Pursell and his friends opened the Fried Pickle in Cloverdale two years ago because it sounded like something fun to do. Its modest size, eye-catching retro decor and moderate cost make it fun for everyone. And more than that, kids of all ages are encouraged to grab a Hula Hoop from the hall, pick three-for-$1 songs on the jukebox and listen to TV with speakers at the booths. Anyone who breaks 100,000 points in pinball while waiting for his or her order gets a free ice cream cone.

THE MENU

Appetizers: Baskets of well-fried starters ($3.99-$4.99) include fried pickles, fried green tomatoes, cheese fries and big, fat onion rings.

Burgers: Ten different Fried Pickle hamburgers ($6.99-$8.99) each give you half a pound of ground beef on a roll with fries and a fried pickle. Choices include the Route 66 (grilled mushrooms, onions and Swiss cheese) and the Jamaican (bacon, grilled onion, Swiss cheese, lettuce, pickle and sweet relish).

Sandwiches: Sandwiches ($3.99-$5.99) come up strong on flavor and construction. Look to the Pig Pen (ham, bacon and Swiss cheese) to fill your belly. There's also the King's favorite - peanut butter and jelly with banana on white toast. Or try the Hula Hoop, a fried bologna and American cheese on white toast for $3.99; add a fried egg for 99 cents more. Radioactive Chili ($3.99) made by Art Pursell twice a week (accompanied by a grilled cheese sandwich) makes a heavenly meal.

Hot dogs: It's a blast to come here for a You Ain't Nothin' But a Hound Dog Big Hot Dog with cheese, chili and onions ($4.99), then knock back a chocolate shake while you laugh over '50s and '60s shows like "Grease" and "I Love Lucy."

Entrees: Meatloaf with mashed potatoes, gravy and a roll could soothe a broken heart. Chopped steak with mushrooms exercises your jaw and open-faced turkey sandwich ($5.99) with gravy and transparently thin meat, left me yearning for more.

Sides and salads: Generous portions of cole slaw or applesauce ($1.09 each) go well with the fried nibbles. Fresh chef ($4.99) or garden salad ($3.99) go with everything and make a good first course.

Desserts: Root beer floats with vanilla ice cream, ice cream sodas, old-fashioned sundaes and other ice cream treats add to the rich, retro feel.

THE GOOD

The place gushes enthusiasm and good times. Friendly, quick service and a desire to accommodate everyone rates high.

Cleanliness reigns in every area and room.

THE NOT SO GOOD

With a little forethought in the cooking department, burgers and chopped steak could be juicier and more tender. Most of the time it's necessary to dump lots of ketchup on these overcooked patties for moisture magic. The American Bandstand sandwich ($5.99) poses as a Philly (beef, onion, green peppers, provolone and mayo on a sub roll), but it's a scantily-filled imposter.

THE BOTTOM LINE

The Fried Pickle is a great concept and it's implemented in the best way possible. It works well and it's better than going to a boring, ordinary place. I know when I come here, I'm going to have a good time.

The Fried Pickle

Rating: * (out of 4)

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Where: 40 Summers Way (Cloverdale Road), Cloverdale

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday

Soda products: Coca-cola (glass bottles available)

Adult bevs? Nope

Plastic? Visa, MasterCard and American Express

Smoking? Nonsmoking entire restaurant; smoking outside

Handicapped accessible? Yes

Takeout? Yes

Delivery? Yes, for large orders

Reservations? For large groups and special events

Live music? Yes

Call: 992-3791

Fax: 992-3788

WHAT THE STARS MEAN

**** Extraordinary. A one-of-a-kind experience.

*** Excellent. Memorable, high-quality menus accompanied by exciting environs and/or savvy service.

** Good. Solid places that beckon with generally appealing cooking.

* Just OK. A place not worth rushing back to. But, it might have something worth recommending: A view, a single dish, friendly service, lively scene.

NO STAR: Poor, below-average.