Dave Zuschin, 37, at DeExpresso on Jefferson Street, working on his dissertation in Renaissance art & music for Radford University. Photo by Stephanie Klein-Davis, The Roanoke Times

Cities with vibrant downtowns often have equally vibrant coffee shops. De Espresso, Roanoke's newest caffeine watering hole, supports this equation.

THE VIBE

The 6-week-old cafe, located on the corner of Church and Jefferson, seems to target the trendy, "metro" crowd.

Its peach-colored walls, sea-foam green and maroon couches, and crosshatched ceiling panels disguise the antique-store look of the location's last tenant. The upbeat mix of club music also helps.

THE MENU

As with most cafes, De Espresso offers the usual coffee drinks, ranging from brewed coffee selections, espresso drinks (hot and cold) and coffee alternatives of tea, hot chocolate or steamed milk. A variety of baked goods (croissants, muffins, scones and rolls) and lunch fare (wraps, bagel sandwiches and paninis) are also available.

All of De Espresso's offerings are below $6, with most of the coffee drinks ranging from $1.40 (a small brewed coffee) to $4.30 (a large white chocolate mocha). The desserts - various slices of pies and cakes - are all priced at approximately $3, with ice cream choices a bit less.

THE SERVICE

Service was quick and attentive, as one of cafe's two brother-owners was working the counter because most of the staff had yet to be hired.

As a self-described coffee snob, I was somewhat disappointed to see brewed coffee being prepared sans bean grinding. Instead, the barista used pre-bagged grounds, which don't tend to offer the same freshness as whole beans ground directly before brewing.

THE GOOD

That observation aside, my cup of "Henry's Blend" from De Espresso's supplier Seattle's Best was not burned and held an acceptable taste. Much better, in fact, than many Starbucks I've visited in the past.

I also sampled the caffe latte, a steamed milk and espresso beverage that is considered a staple of any cafe's espresso selections. It, too, was very well made, with a frothy top and pleasant taste.

THE NOT SO GOOD

Unfortunately, I can't say the same of their lunch items.

I ordered an Italian panini ($5.50) with a blueberry muffin ($1) for dessert on the recommendation of a fellow customer and the owner. What arrived a few minutes later looked like a meal I could have made with a Target-bought panini maker.

The order was served on a cheap-looking plastic lunch tray not unlike those used in high school cafeterias. The paper and plastic plates were Dixie brand and looked as if they belonged at a child's birthday party.

The Italian panini wasn't much better. Inside the grilled ciabatta bread were pepperoni, salami, onions, peppers, mozzarella, tomatoes and pesto mayonnaise. It was served with ruffled chips on the side.

The taste was OK, and much better than its appearance suggested. I did find it a bit greasy, but I assume this was from the meat.

THE BEST

After the not-so-good panini, I was looking forward to my blueberry muffin. And I was not disappointed. The muffin looked and tasted homemade - crusty on the outside, soft on the inside. There were ample berries and it was just large enough without being too filling.

But perhaps the best thing about De Espresso was its free wireless Internet service. Instead of relying on what the owner claimed was a slow and inconsistent free service offered by the city, the cafe has its own signal for customer use.

My Apple iBook with an Airport wireless card connected flawlessly and held its signal without interruption throughout my two-hour visit.

THE BOTTOM LINE

While downtown Roanoke may lack the number of coffee shops compared to other urban centers, its newest cafe manages to succeed where it counts - good coffee drinks, tasty baked goods and a stylish environment. And De Espresso should concentrate on just that - its espresso.De Espresso

Rating: ** (out of 4)

Price range: Everything below $6

Where: Corner of Church and Jefferson streets, downtown Roanoke.

Hours: 6 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 6 a.m. to 11 p.m. weekends. Closed on Sundays during July.

Capacity: More than 15 tables (three chairs each), 10 couches (two people each) and a private conference room (20 people).

Soda products: None

Adult beverages? No

Do they make their desserts? No

Plastic? Most major credit cards accepted.

Smoking? No

Handicapped accessible? Yes

Takeout? Duh - it's a coffee shop

Delivery? Yes, in the immediate downtown area.

Reservations? No

Live music? Occasionally on the weekends.

Call: 344-3959

Fax: 344-4347

Web site: deespresso.com (not working yet)

WHAT THE STARS MEAN

**** Extraordinary. A one-of-a-kind experience.

*** Excellent. Memorable, high-quality menus accompanied by exciting environs and/or savvy service.

** Good. Solid places that beckon with generally appealing cooking.

* Just OK. A place not worth rushing back to.

NO STAR: Poor, below-average.