Venturing beyond the ordinary to the exceptional, Fuel Co. in Charlottesville not only sells gas, but also houses the C-Store (offering gourmet whole foods), a cafe/espresso bar and bistro/bar.

THE BOTTOM LINE:

I like Fuel Co. It's a casual spot, the menus incorporate a creative blend of fresh ingredients and the results are attractive, tasty and satisfying.

THE IDEA

The inspiration for this exciting concept developed during owner Patricia Kluge's many car trips to New York after 9/11. After observing the lack of good food off the interstate, she decided to do something positive and provide better meals for motorists. Fuel Co. is the model - the prototype - for Kluge's "Ritz-Carlton of gas stations."

During the 18 months it's been open, I've eaten there six times for brunch, lunch and dinner, with the level of quality progressing gradually from inconsistent toward first-rate. Within the past few months, subsequent visits proved the food to be delicious - some selections even stellar - and the self-assured service has just the right degree of friendliness coupled with graciousness.

SUNDAY BRUNCH

A Sunday brunch in the bistro offers seven traditional main courses paired with an array of accompaniments. Select from Huevos Rancheros, wonderful potato pancakes containing grated potatoes and celery root with smoked salmon, poached eggs, salmon caviar and tarragon hollandaise sauce.

Few meals are better than the omelet of sauteed wild mushrooms, asparagus and fresh chevre. Whimsically named Green Eggs and Ham provide a lively feast of scrambled eggs mixed with pesto, Virginia ham, toast and the house breakfast potatoes with truffled ketchup.

LUNCH

Croissant sandwiches for lunch are notable for the abundant delicious fillings, and I'm partial to the chicken curry, followed by the egg salad florentine. The Cuban sandwich layers spicy braised pork with Serrano ham, melted cheese, pickle and mustard dressing on a pressed baguette, and appeals to the well-constructed sandwich fan in me.

Fried Polyface Farm Chicken is exceptional and so is the sophisticated grilled chicken salad with baby greens, roasted red pepper and portobello mushrooms.

DINNER

Dinner reflects the seasonality of ingredients and usually offers two or three specials per week. For starters, tuck into the thick, creamy fennel bisque or hearty bean and vegetable soup. Then progress to salad of mache, frisee, Roquefort, grapes and crunchy toasted walnuts dressed with a well-balanced honey balsamic vinaigrette.

MORE GOOD

Desserts top a meal off grandly: Vanilla ice cream profiteroles, chocolate creme brulee, chocolate mousse with pistachio brulee dome, and chocolate pecan pie with bourbon vanilla ice cream head the list.

Grilled loup de mer, a Mediterranean sea bass, was in fresh that day and had excellent flavor and texture. Accompanied by a triangle of grilled garbanzo bean cake and puddles of fresh leek puree on a white rectangular dish, it looked as pretty as it was delicious.

THE BAD

The only meal not worth ordering is the ravioli in broth. The ravioli lack filling and they're doughy - a disappointment.

THE BEVS

Fuel Co. stocks an extensive selection of American and global wines, liqueurs, beers and Odwalla organic juices, so there's something to go with everything and for everyone's taste. The prices are right, too. Martinis and Manhattans as well as a carload of mixed drinks are bar specialties.

FUEL CO.

901 East Market St. (near the mall), Charlottesville

Hours

Too complicated to list.

Call for details.

Prices

• Dinner (bistro): $6.50 -$25

• Breakfast and lunch (cafe): $1.95-$6.95

Plastic?

All major credit cards

Reservations accepted?

Yes

No Smoking section?

Entire complex

Beverages

Full service

Call

(434) 220-3700 or (434) 220-0864

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