Fresh mozzarella and tomato bruschetta tapas Photos by Eric Brady, The Roanoke Times

Unless you've been to Spain or New York lately, you may be unfamiliar with the latest in appetizers: tapas. Cousins to the Italian antipasto, Chinese dim sum, Turkish meze and French hors d'oeuvres, tapas come from the Spanish word meaning "lid" or "cover."

MEET ZAK

Zak St. Clair Who: Owner and chef, Zak's Cafe From: Bedford Training: Chef for 10 years at a local family-owned restaurant. Favorite restaurants: Cracker Barrel, because they serve breakfast all day, and Michele's on Main in Salem. His tapas pick: The shrimp en croute. I politely asked him for the recipe, but he said no. Then I politely begged him for the recipe for the bacon-wrapped scallops in Marsala sauce, but he refused. Don't despair; he did reveal his fresh mozzarella and tomato bruschetta recipe, along with some tips for making tapas at home. (See below for recipe.)

They originated as pieces of bread or ham used to cover wine glasses, keeping away dust and flies. Tapas bars — serving marinated olives, almonds and sheep's milk cheese — appeared in villages and cities alike, providing snacks and socialization between meals.

WHERE TO FIND 'EM

Tapas are here and you may not even know it. I visited Zak's Cafe in downtown Roanoke on a recent Saturday night to taste theirs. Zak's is the only Roanoke-area restaurant I could find that has picked up on this international craze.

Zak's owner, Zak St. Clair, said tapas are something you don't see very often, especially on menus around here.

What makes Zak's tapas different from other appetizers? St. Clair said his resemble entrees on small plates.

THE CHOICES

Zak's head chef, Paul Einhellig, presented a tapas list that included more than 15 items.

I wanted to try four: Goat cheese and caramelized onion quesadilla, fresh mozzarella and tomato bruschetta, and stuffed shrimp en croute were definites, but I left my fourth choice up to the waiter. He suggested the bacon-wrapped scallops in honey Marsala sauce, saying they were a customer favorite.

It was a good suggestion — they were incredibly flavorful. The Marsala sauce was sweet, buttery and oh-so-delicious.

My second favorite was the shrimp en croute, puff pastry stuffed with shrimp, feta cheese and tomatoes in a roasted red pepper sauce. My last two picks, the quesadilla and bruschetta, were simple yet scrumptious.

The dozen or so other tapas include an assortment of bruschettas and quesadillas, along with shrimp scampi and stuffed mushrooms. They range from $3 to $6 each.

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TAPAS TIPS

• One entree can become a tapa for two or three.

• Divide the entree into four pieces and add dipping sauce.

• Think small portions.

• Start with something easy, like bruschetta.

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ZAK'S BRUSCHETTA

1. Brush each side of French-bread baguette slices with olive oil.

2. Bake in 325 degree oven for six minutes on each side.

3. Top with slices of ripened tomato and fresh mozzarella cheese.

4. Add artichokes, bacon, feta cheese or any other toppings of your choice.

5. Mix olive oil and red wine vinegar for dipping sauce.

6. Bon appetit!

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Zak's Cafe

Where: 128 Campbell Ave., downtown Roanoke.

Tapas hours: 5-10 p.m. Thursday through Saturday.

Call: 343-6900. Reservations encouraged.