Wasabi's, Downtown Roanoke

4 stars (out of 5)

You'll find this sushi restaurant in a small front on Market Street in the space formerly occupied by Jeffrey's.

Chef Santiago Cruz, formerly the chef at Salem's Sake House, arranges plates with all of the compositional care given a bouquet of flowers.

The standard maki rolls are easily some of the best in town. Classics such as the California roll and futomaki are excellent.

The special maki rolls created by Cruz had all the richness of French pastries complete with thick, creamy sauces. Standouts included the Tokyo Rose ($13), which was filled with yellowtail and broiled eel and then painted like a Jackson Pollock with colorful sauces and green onions. My favorite was the Samurai Roll ($12), featuring spicy tuna covered in an armor-like shell of fresh cucumber, which demonstrated the chef's knife skills.

Entirely nonsmoking. 214 Market St., downtown Roanoke. 904-6254.

— Grant Jedlinksy (April 26)

The Seafood Co., Roanoke

4 ½ stars (out of five)

Exceptional dishes at modest prices ($4.25-$18.95) make this cozy, easy-going restaurant one of Roanoke's great food finds.

Owner-chef Steve Van Metre, formerly of the popular Angler's Cafe in downtown Roanoke, and his sous chef William Popehak, know how to cook the freshest, best fish and shellfish they purchase from Virginia waters.

Highlights included the pan-seared grouper on a sourdough roll, the fish and chips, the mussels appetizer and a house-made chocolate silk pie. The beer selection and wine list was also impressive.

Even though The Seafood Co. is visible from Interstate 581, it's still easy to overlook after taking the Colonial Avenue exit and turning left (you'll find it up a small road just before a gas station).

For the kids: The menu includes chicken fingers and fried shrimp; booths and high chairs available; quiet dining room; coloring books.

Entirely nonsmoking. 2626 Broadway, Roanoke (near Towers Shopping Center), Roanoke. 344-6155.

-- Dolores Kostelni (April 5)

Carrabba's Italian Grill, Roanoke

3 stars

Housed in a rustic wood building, Carrabba's Italian Grill next to Valley View Mall reminds me of country inns where I've eaten in Italy.

Highlights include the house Italian bread served with fragrant herbs and with olive oil, the tasty and attractive chicken marsala ($15.49) and flavorful grilled salmon ($16.99).

The first time I ordered the fried calamari ($7.99), I was shocked by the overpowering saltiness. But after another visit one month later, I considered the heap of chunky rings fried to tender, golden crispness as one of the best offerings on the menu. The vegetable of the day should not be missed, especially if it's squash in tomato sauce, and the cannoli ($5.79 for two) could be the best for miles around.

Besides oversalted dishes, one of the major disappointments was the Caesar salad ($4.49), which was engulfed in a deluge of harsh, yellowish vinaigrette on every visit.

Carrabba's is entirely nonsmoking, and it's only open for dinner (or a late lunch on the weekends). Even though some dishes have improved, it's still hit-or-miss cooking.

FOR THE KIDS: The menu includes Italian fare along with grilled chicken breast and chicken fingers; spacious booths and high chairs; comfortably noisy dining room; and kids can form their own pizza dough designs at the table.

4802 Valley View Blvd., Roanoke. (540) 265-3569, www.carrabbas.com.

-- Dolores Kostelni (March 15)

HENRY'S MEMPHIS BBQ, Roanoke

HHH

Henry Caldwell moved to Roanoke from Memphis, Tenn., in 1992, saw a need for real Memphis barbecue in the region and opened this no-frills, self-service joint across from Towers Shopping Center in 2005. He has plans to open another location in Salem next year.

Choices are extensive and include regular and jumbo sandwiches, platters served with two sides and bread, plus desserts. Pulled-pork sandwiches containing an almost equal quantity of crusty and soft meat head the list of my favorites, along with the barbecue spaghetti, which is simply spaghetti with Henry's barbecue sauce, a mild, tomato-based potion containing balanced levels of ingredients and seasonings.

The food is tasty and prepared the way it should be. The homemade pecan pie is rich, but the prices aren't -- bet on an under-$10 lunch. It's a place I'll take visitors to and recommend to colleagues traveling through the area.

677 Brandon Ave., Roanoke. 904-2727, www.henrysmemphisbbq.com.

— Dolores Kostelni (Dec. 7)

PANERA BREAD, Roanoke County

HHH

Walk into this trendy bakery-cafe chain at any time of day, and you're guaranteed to find hordes of hungry people. You can choose from breads and bagels, sandwiches, panini, soups, salads, pastries and a dizzying array of hot and cold beverages. Although the pastries beckon, some disappointed with toughness and a lack of good flavor. The single best pastry I've had is the almond-filled bear claw, and my hands-down favorite menu item is the baked egg souffle, filled with spinach and artichoke or spinach and bacon.

4202 Electric Road, Roanoke County. 776-1001, www.panerabread.com.

-- Dolores Kostelni (Oct. 12)

RED ROBIN GOURMET BURGERS & SPIRITS, Roanoke

HH ½

The menu at this chain restaurant is full of American classics with some creative additions, though they're sometimes better written than tasting. Most meals are $9 or $10, and they seem a little overpriced for what you're getting (especially the $2.19 bottomless soda). I recommend their burgers (which come with bottomless fries).

4802 Valley View Blvd., near Valley View Mall, Roanoke. Also at 105 Peppers Ferry Road in Christiansburg. 265-5930, www.redrobin.com.

-- Grant Jedlinsky (Sept. 28)

TABLE FIFTY, Downtown Roanoke

HHHH

Table Fifty, serving progressive American cuisine, opened in June on the Roanoke City Market.

Proprietors Michael Caudill and Eric DiLauro, both of whom had worked at Frankie Rowland’s Steakhouse, named their restaurant after their former employer’s choice table — table 50.

The owners have created a charming, colorful space, but not necessarily cozy because it throbs with noise .

But, Table Fifty serves excellent dishes featuring interesting combinations of familiar ingredients made more appealing with reasonable prices.

Highlights include the Caesar salad (which could be one of the best in town), nicely seared crab cakes, seared duck breast with herb spaetzle, and Prime New York strip steak, one of the most popular entrees according to DiLauro.

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. Price range: Lunch: $5-$9. Dinner: $7-$26. Entirely nonsmoking. 309 Market St., downtown Roanoke. (540) 904-2350.

— Dolores Kostelni (Sept. 14)

BEN GUI SUSHI, Roanoke

HHHH (out of five)

This newcomer to Roanoke County has a lot to be proud of. The restaurant offers a pleasant, inviting atmosphere, and the menu is broad and diverse, allowing for a light, moderately priced meal or a feast for those eager to sample.

The sushi selection includes more than 30 types of nigiri and basic maki rolls, not including combinations and their own original recipes.

Dessert was worth saving room for (a wheel of six tempura banana slices with a hub of green tea ice cream) and the house soup alone is worth a trip. But the Unique Maki menu is unquestionably its crown jewel. With names such as Sex on the Beach and Crazy Cowboy, these creative recipes are eight truly original reasons to go out for sushi.

All of the staff members were friendly, but owners and married couple Ben Gui and Jin Chen in particular are eager to explain dishes and make recommendations.

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 4:30 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday. Price range: $7.50 to $16.50 for lunch; $9.50 to $21.50 for most dinner entrees; $3 to $10.50 for individual rolls. Entirely nonsmoking. 4353 Starkey Road, near Tanglewood Mall. 772-6888.

— Orr Shtuhl (Aug. 17)

SZECHUAN RESTAURANT, Roanoke

HH

One year ago, Roanoke staple Szechuan Restaurant near Tanglewood Mall in Roanoke County renovated its bar and seating area, added an aquarium in the dining room and updated its menu with a host of new dishes, including sushi.

For the hungry, Szechuan will satisfy. The large entrees are mostly meat (very clean cuts), served with a side bowl of white rice. The soups were tasty, meat-abundant and — in the case of specialties such as Sea Treasure soup with crab, shrimp and scallops — creative.

Szechuan’s cuisine is satisfying, but it’s the heavy, saccharine sauces that do it in. Despite attractive decor and presentation, it’s hard to overlook that the simple dishes are only a small step up from buffet fare. Basics such as General Tso’s chicken are tasty but essentially fast food, and while they would make for fine lunch specials, few of the entrees are worth ponying up double-digit prices for dinner.

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Delivery until 9 p.m. Price range: Mostly $7.95-$16.95. Entirely nonsmoking. 5207 Bernard Drive (right off Electric Road/Virginia 419), near Tanglewood Mall. 989-7947, www.szechuans.com.

— Orr Shtuhl (July 20)

MARTIN’S DOWNTOWN BAR & GRILL, Downtown Roanoke

HHHH ½

For lunch, dinner or an evening of music, Martin’s is a downtown destination not to be missed. Whether you opt for elegant entrees (including prime rib and bacon-wrapped barbecued chicken kabobs) or more casual sandwiches, salads and burgers, the servings are ample, the sides are above average and the desserts are spectacular. And, three evenings a week, you can follow up your meal with live music.

General manager Jason Martin, who owns the restaurant along with his family, is fiercely proud of the ribs, which are served St. Louis style or in a tangy Carolina sauce with mustard. More highlights include the smashed potatoes and grouper stuffed with crab.

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Friday (bar stays open later). 4-11 p.m. Saturday (bar stays open later). Closed Sunday. Price range: Lunch: $5-$8; Dinner: $10-$25. 413 First St. S.W., Roanoke. 985-6278, www.martinsdowntown.com.

— Alison Weaver (June 22)

HONG KONG, Roanoke

**** (out of five)

You won’t find a buffet at Mindy and Ingpin Chen’s small Chinese restaurant in Hunting Hills Plaza on U.S. 220, but expect food freshly prepared to order.

Because meals have an unmistakable fresh taste, Hong Kong is in a class of its own: Its preparations eclipse the buffet foods for miles around.

I’ve sampled close to 15 of the more than 125 dishes on the menu, and I came away pleased with the flavors, tenderness of the meats, attractiveness of the dishes, and the plentiful vegetables on each plate.

Service is well-timed, and chef Ingpin’s execution of the ingredients and dishes is consistent.

Highlights include the House Special soup (featuring shrimp, pork, chicken and more); the Vegetable Delight and String Beans with Garlic Sauce on the lighter menu; Shredded Beef Szechuan; and the Triple Crown, one of the amazingly hot dishes that the chef will adjust to your level of fiery tolerance.

Not to be picky, but dishes including the General Tso’s chicken and sesame chicken were encased in a heavy batter that separated from the meat (and both were drenched in cloyingly sweet sauces).

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; Noon to 9:30 p.m. Sunday. Price range: $5.25-$24. Hunting Hills Plaza (Wal-Mart on U.S. 220), 4208 I Franklin Road, Roanoke. 772-8081.

— Dolores Kostelni (June 8)

TRIO BISTRO BAR BOTTLE, Downtown Roanoke

*** ½

Trio Bistro Bar Bottle opened on the Roanoke City Market in January. As its name suggests, Trio actually comprises three business entities, featuring American cuisine, more than 500 wines from all over the world available to diners as well as shoppers, and a beautiful bar area with its own menu.

The menus for lunch and dinner offer reasonably priced appetizers, soups, salads and entrees. For lunch, expect nine varieties of well-put-together sandwiches on rolls, hoagies or rye bread (skip the ill-conceived lettuce wraps). Dinner presents “composed dishes” ranging from the wonderful herb-brined half chicken, pot roast, fish, seafood and chops as well as a steak selection with a list of complements, including lobster tail, shrimp skewers and mushrooms, to name a few.

Head chef Marc Burnley, a Culinary Institute of America graduate, gained experience with the La Playa hotel chain in Naples, Fla., before coming to Trio. There is no doubt Burnley knows how to create some delicious meals, but his heavy hand with salt overwhelms the ingredients.

Jane Savage, most recently of Alexander’s, prepares an array of desserts, most notably a silken creme brulee with fresh raspberries and Baked Alaska.

More highlights include a Sunday brunch and a stunning interior.

Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday through Saturday; Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 5-9 p.m. Sunday. Sunday brunch: 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Bar open until midnight on Friday and Saturday and 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday. Lunch: $8-$12. Dinner: $6-$36. Brunch: $6-$11. The bar and restaurant is entirely nonsmoking. 315 Market St., downtown Roanoke. 904-5887, www.triowinebar.com.

— Dolores Kostelni (April 20)

TONG’S THAI, Downtown Roanoke

****

Tong’s Thai, which opened in January in the former Thai Restaurant location on Salem Avenue, adds a new layer to a restaurant scene already ripe with exotic options. Diners can choose from 40 entrees, including noodle dishes such as drunken noodle and pad thai, curry dishes and a dozen vegetarian offerings. One of the tastiest menu items is tom ka gai, a hot soup with a coconut milk base, lemongrass, mushrooms, lime leaves and a choice of shrimp or chicken. The green curry, which contains deliciously sweet eggplant, is to die for.

After a trip to Thailand last year, one of my dining partners decided to test the yum pla muk, a fresh calamari salad, for authenticity. He was impressed by how much it reminded him of his vacation, and those of us who tried it were blown away by the “Thai hot” heat.

The only dish that left us wanting was the pepper beef, and that’s because the beef was a bit too tough.

Owner Sukasom Na Songkhla has packed his kitchen with chefs and his dining room with servers, so the food is always fast and hot and the service is attentive.

Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; noon-9 p.m. Sunday.

Price range: Lunch entrees, $7.95-$12.95; dinner entrees, $9.95-$14.95. Entirely nonsmoking. 19 Salem Ave., downtown Roanoke. 344-7732.

— Lindsey Nair (March 9)

ROCKFISH FOOD & WINE, Roanoke

***

This semi-upscale little eatery near the Grandin Theatre features a conservative variety of never-before-seen entrees and a stellar list of affordable wines (more than 170 on the list).

Highlights included the beautifully presented smoked rainbow trout, the flavorful oven-dried tomato and wild mushroom quesadilla, the homemade toasted sesame vinaigrette and the bernie potatoes (lightly battered and fried mashed potato dollops).

Rockfish could already be a favorite among Raleigh Court residents and frequent visitors, but small improvements, like jazzing up the flavors and beefing up the portions, might assure this restaurant some longevity.

Dinner served Tuesday through Saturday and every other Sunday. Lunch only on Fridays. Price range: $7-$18.50 for dinner entrees. Entirely nonsmoking. Live jazz every other Sunday. 1402 Grandin Road, Roanoke. (540) 904-5454.

— Lindsey Nair (Feb. 23)

AVENUE GRILL, Roanoke

***

The prices, daily specials and service at this eatery on Melrose Avenue are all worth bragging about. For lunch, the menu includes salads, burgers, subs and fried chicken (my order was the largest, juiciest piece of white meat I’ve eaten away from Grandma’s house in a long time).

Dinner is only served from 5-8 p.m. on Fridays, and it includes much of the lunch menu with the addition of pork tenderloin, prime rib, baked chicken, salmon and oysters.

The restaurant also offers an impressive selection of side items — 10 in all — which include mashed potatoes, broccoli and cheese, mixed greens, green beans, corn, rice pilaf, macaroni and cheese, and sweet potato souffle.

Overall, it’s definitely a place I would revisit. The Avenue offers excellent portions and prices — everything on the lunch menu is under $7. Hot dogs start at $2 and the most expensive item is the 8-piece wings for $6.49. For dinner, the most expensive item is the seafood platter — whiting, shrimp and oysters for $15 — but most dinner selections are under $10. 2523 Melrose Ave. N.W., Roanoke. 981-0099.

— Courtney Cutright (Feb. 9)

THE BANK FOOD AND DRINK, Pearisburg

**** ½

It's a real pleasure to write about The Bank Food and Drink for a number of reasons. Superb is the only word worthy of describing the freshly prepared, cooked-to-order food, and the service is exceptional. The portions are generous, the prices are moderate and the food is presented in a stunning contemporary style.

Highlights from the menu include the griddled crab cake with curry sauce; tender pork loin with apples and port wine sauce; and sauteed fresh sole fillets brightened with lemon caper or roasted tomato sauces. The homemade desserts-- including the apple tarte tatin and chocolate tasting trio -- can only be described as divine.

Not only do the sophisticated meals have appeal, but getting there is a gorgeous drive from Roanoke down through the New River Valley into Giles County, where the edge of the commonwealth meets West Virginia. Easy to find, The Bank greets you on entering the town of Pearisburg on Va. 100. Reservations are recommended. (540) 921-2981, thebankfoodanddrink.com.

— Dolores Kostelni (Dec. 8)

CABO FISH TACO, Blacksburg

****

The food at this funky Baja seagrill is fresh, spicy and light. The taste of the food in general is a very acquired taste — it’s not spicy in terms of anything I’ve ever had before. This is not a place for bland-food lovers.

The specialty is, of course, the fish taco. Fish fillings include your choice of shrimp, mahi-mahi, grilled tuna and cod. Other highlights include the Baja Shrimp and Crab Dip (ecstasy on pita bread) and 13 different margaritas (with homemade mixes and your choice of 72 different tequilas).

Although I did not personally fall in love with the style and flavor of the food, I think that one would be doing a huge disservice to himself or herself if they did not explore this restaurant. 117 S. Main St., Blacksburg. (540) 552-0950, cabofishtaco.com.

— Lindsay Key (Dec. 1)

THE CELLAR

***

It’s easy to pass by this small building on Brambleton Avenue in Roanoke, but inside the friendly owners serve some affordable, tasty regional specialties cooked in a beloved home style, just the way we like them. Highlights include the roasted chicken, pan-fried pork chops, tender pot roast with brown gravy, grilled tuna steak and Maryland crab cakes. Thick slices of meatloaf with sides of lumpy garlic mashed potatoes and Southern-style green beans left me in a contented state of bliss. Disappointments include the loosely rolled wraps, the white chicken chili and a lackluster Sunday buffet (though I’ve never had better biscuits in all my life). Even though the place is not romantic, a glass of wine, good conversation and honest food make it a destination I recommend. 3203 Brambleton Ave., Roanoke. 777-0388.

— Dolores Kostelni (Nov. 17)

SMOKEY BONES BARBECUE & GRILL

** ½

This chain restaurant located next to Valley View Mall in Roanoke offers American fare with a specialty in barbecued meats and buffalo burgers. Highlights include the nachos topped with savory chicken barbecue, old-fashioned skillet corn bread with crushed pecan butter and the buffalo wings. Offerings from the smoker include hand-pulled pork, smoked beef brisket, grilled smoked sausage and smoked turkey breast — but the chicken might be the best item on the barbecue menu. The house sauce is most like Kansas City-style: Thick, sweet and tomatoey. Some diners may find their prices a little high at $13.29 for a half-rack of baby back ribs and $18.29 for a whole. Adding baby backs to the two- and three-meat combination dinners jacks the price up to about $16.50 and $20, respectively. Smokey Bones is a good place for families, but it’s not likely to be distinguished as the finest barbecue restaurant in Southwest Virginia.

— Lindsey Nair (Nov. 3)

CAFE SOLEIL

*** ½

Maybe it’s the name, but Cafe Soleil shines some light on the newly designed Market Square North, located at the intersection of Peters Creek and Williamson roads. This little bistro is stylish and comfy, offering WiFi Internet access along with its paninis, pizzas, salads, build-your-own sandwiches and the must-try crab cake sandwich. Desserts, smoothies, coffee and tea are also on the menu. Be warned: There’s only five tables available, so you might want to plan an early or late lunch, or consider takeout. 7214 Williamson Road, Roanoke. 777-4563.

— Kasey Freedman (Oct. 20)

HOLLYWOOD’S RESTAURANT & BAKERY

***

When Mark and Christine Henderson bought the popular Wildflour near Hollins University in 2001, they kept the Wildflour name and added a few of their favorite dishes to the menu. But patrons were confused about the ownership change, so the Hendersons changed the name to Hollywood’s in January. They wisely kept the original staff, the reasonable prices and the appealing, freshly prepared American favorites and riffs on fusion cuisine. The vibe is casual, but its warmth and hospitality are giant-sized and old fashioned. Menu highlights include white bean chicken chili, grilled stuffed tomatoes, quesadillias, wraps, Cajun meatloaf and crab cakes. For dessert, try the carrot cake, coconut cake, or cheesecake (without the awful mallow-type topping and goopy canned fruit). 7770 Williamson Road (near Hollins University). 362-1812.

— Dolores Kostelni (Oct. 6)

VERANDA BISTRO

****

Don’t let the bistro’s unfortunate location next to a gas station fool you — you’ll find wonderful homemade food and desserts at this Mediterranean-style restaurant near the Roanoke County/Botetourt County line. Most of the menu items suggest a strong Greek influence fused with pizza, burgers, sandwiches, pasta and even a few vegetarian options. Folks new to the bistro or Mediterranean food in general should stick with the classic gyro dinner, featuring sliced lamb, lettuce and tomato with homemade tzatziki sauce wrapped in pita bread, served with french fries and a Greek salad. Another highlight is the bistro’s outdoor seating — you’ll get a view of nearby Tinker Mountain and sounds from the bubbling creek. 8201 Williamson Road, Hollins. 563-4445.

— Patrick Beeson (Sept. 29)

FIVE GUYS FAMOUS BURGERSAND FRIES

***

This burger franchise opened its Salem location in June (there’s also one in Blacksburg and another planned to open in Southwest Roanoke County by the end of the year).

The difference between a fast-food restaurant and a Five Guys Famous Burgers and Fries is needing something quick to take the edge off versus wanting to satisfy the craving for a high-quality hamburger.

I think it’s safe to say that Five Guys’ burgers are about equal to firing up your own grill, fashioning patties, toasting buns and cutting up all the fresh toppings. It isn’t an elegant eatery or a romantic date spot, but it should be high on anyone’s list of spots for good, hearty grubbing. 1304 West Main St. in Salem and 880 University City Blvd. in Blacksburg. 375-6712, fiveguys.com.

— Lindsey Nair (Sept. 8)

CAFE MICHEL

*****

When Carmen and Michel Galand opened the doors to their newly relocated Cafe Michel in Lexington in June 2004, they created a delicious corner of Provence for the area. Perennially successful in Clifton Forge for 23 years, Lexington's Cafe Michel is a dining destination in the Shenandoah Valley. Chef Michel Galand serves masterfully prepared, attractively presented French and American dishes I consider superb and of excellent value. Besides the wide-ranging menu emphasizing seafood, fish and veal, this white tablecloth restaurant offers seasonal specialties every night. 640 North Lee Highway (U.S. 11), Lexington. (540) 464-4119, michelcafe.com.

— Dolores Kostelni (Aug. 25)

ODDFELLAS CANTINA

****

Everything about this Floyd eatery is eclectic: the menu, the decor, the artwork, the live music (which is featured every night). Chef Natasha Shishkevish offers a changing menu (with Southwestern, Indian and Thai influences) filled with surprising combinations, from its signature chimichangas to gourmet cuisine. Don't be shy about asking the knowledgeable staff to guide you to a memorable dining experience. 10 N. Locust Street (U.S. 221), Floyd. 745-3463, oddfellascantina.com.

— Alison Weaver

HISTORIC PINE TAVERN

****1/2

Recently reopened under new management, the tavern features a revamped menu, brighter interior and plenty of hospitality. Owners Reed and Jane Embrey and their staff dish up authentic Southern food that tastes just like my grandmother used to make. The meals are served family-style, with platters of meats and bowls of vegetables, side dishes and gravy. For $11, adults can get fried chicken and their choice of country ham or roast beef along with mashed potatoes, green beans, pinto beans, dumplings and a choice of cole slaw or tossed salad. Buttermilk biscuits, beverage and fruit cobbler are included in the price, plus the fruit or vegetable of the day. (Non-family-style meals such as fried catfish and meatloaf are also available.) Bottom line? Grab your family, pack up your out-of-town guests and make the scenic drive to Floyd. Let them fill you and your loved ones with down-home food that showcases the best in Southern cooking. 745-4482, thepinetavern.com.

— Alison Weaver

ICHIBAN JAPANESE STEAK AND SEAFOOD HOUSE

** 1/2

Ichiban has the basics -- Japanese-looking decor; several hibachi grills with community seating; cooks trained to entertain with circus-like moves; and the usual Teriyaki-laden menu. My order of Teriyaki scallops were grilled to satisfaction and the entree paired well with the crispy vegetables and nearly flawless fried rice. My date's choice of the steak and shrimp entree was also quite good. However, so much of what Ichiban and other Japanese restaurants sell is in the dining experience. The predictability of Ichiban's style, menu and service made for a muted one. 2004 Electric Road, Roanoke. 725-1288.

— Patrick Beeson

KABOB HOUSE

****

A new Middle Eastern restaurant in Blacksburg, located next to Oasis World Market. Chef Magdy Soltan serves up Middle Eastern classics, such as tabouleh (a salad made with chopped parsley, tomatoes, onions, olive oil and lemon juice) and shawarma (a sandwich made with shaved meat, vegetables and all sorts of spices). It's pretty standard but tastes great. The day I went, the lamb was just tender enough, the rice pudding was nicely drenched in rose water and the mango juice was reasonably fresh. But the real star was the baba ghanouj, which came with delicious chunks of eggplant swimming in tahini (a paste made with sesame seeds). 1405 S. Main St., Blacksburg. (540) 953-0090.

— David Harrison

THE FRIED PICKLE

**

Even on an ordinary day -- when there's no Elvis impersonator or classic car cruise-in or live outdoor music -- this Cloverdale restaurant with a '50s and '60s retro feel jumps with enthusiasm. Menu highlights include burgers, sandwiches like the Hula Hoop (a fried bologna and American cheese on white toast), Radioactive Chili and the You Ain't Nothin' But a Hound Dog Big Hot Dog. 992-3791.

— Dolores Kostelni

DE ESPRESSO

***

This new cafe, located on the corner of Church and Jefferson in downtown Roanoke, seems to target the trendy, "metro" crowd. It manages to succeed where it counts -- good coffee drinks, tasty baked goods and a stylish environment. Perhaps the best thing was its free wireless Internet service. 344-3959.

— Patrick Beeson

FORK IN THE ALLEY

****

Don't drive too fast down Crystal Spring Avenue in South Roanoke, because you might miss this popular hang out. The brick oven pub serves all-American favorites with a kick, including build-your-own pizzas, burgers and hot dogs. Highlights include patio seating (13 tables), the cheese slaw, the Brick Oven S'more dessert and live music on the weekends. Unfortunately, reservations are not accepted. 2123 Crystal Spring Ave. (next to the White House and 7-Eleven). 982-FORK, forkinthealley.com.

— Kasey Freedman

What the stars mean

***** Excellent. A one-of-a-kind experience.

**** Very good. Memorable menus accompanied by exciting environs and/or savvy service.

*** Good. Solid places that beckon with generally appealing cooking.

** Just OK. A place not worth rushing back to. But, it might have something worth recommending: A view, a single dish, friendly service, lively scene.

* Poor. Don't waste your money here.