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THE VIBE

Named for its location at the corner of Market Street and Campbell Avenue in downtown Roanoke, 202 Market has been a bookstore, restaurant and nightclub in previous incarnations. Now, after a fashionable renovation, it's difficult to think of another gastronomic setting with so much pizzazz, excellent food, charm and smooth service.

Its three different settings cater to evenings of elegance, business or nicely casual. City Bar, located on the first floor directly ahead of the entrance, offers a lounge and dining area, which has more of a supper club atmosphere. Beyond the City Bar is the more intimate Kitchen at 202. The bold color scheme and dramatic art set this room apart, as do a muted noise level and private niches. The Loft, located upstairs, is an area I haven't ventured to because it had been cordoned off for private parties when I was there.

MEET THE CHEF

Originally from Salem, chef Chad Scott's culinary talents sparked during the eight years he worked at Mac and Bob's, before he attended the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. After graduation, he began his professional career in New York City under internationally acclaimed chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten followed by a stint with Eric Bedoucha at La Grenouille, and after that, with Guenter Seeger in Atlanta. Then Scott helped to open Mason's in Easton, Md., which he operated successfully for five years. Scott returned to Atlanta to open another dining establishment, Monaco's, and was voted one of the top five young chefs of the city.

The core of Scott's culinary philosophy is based on the seasonal rhythms, using the freshest produce and the finest meats, fish and poultry available at the time.

THE MENU

Chef Scott describes the food as contemporary American and progressive American, which means he creates interpretations of popular dishes. Scott changes the menu offerings frequently, depending on what is available from the market and purveyors. Thus, some of the dishes I enjoyed may have been replaced with other more seasonally appropriate offerings. However, the following list should give you an idea of the far-ranging scope of Scott's abilities and techniques.

The single-page menu featured five "snackies" (beautifully arranged plates of tasty morsels), including truffle kettle popcorn, fried chicken with Dijon mustard and blue cheese with ruby grapefruit confiture. Of these three, the fried chicken is the only snack still on the menu.

Twelve starters included salads, braised barbecue beef tacos, chicken wings, scallops, tuna tartare with wasabi root granita, steamed mussels and fried calamari with spearmint and harissa sauces, the latter a fiery Moroccan seasoning. The nine main courses included fish, crab cakes, paella Catalan, house-made pasta, and beef filet with bacon, lettuce, tomato, truffle-Parmigiana fries and salsa verde. All desserts, including flavorful sorbets, ice creams and panna cotta, are made daily on the premises.

THE WINE LIST

Although wines by the bottle are generally expensive ($22 to $275), the global array is thoughtful and worthy of consideration. The list includes Virginia representation: Cabernet Franc from Barboursville Vineyards ($41) as well as a rose from Kluge Estate ($38). Some very good reds and whites are available by the generous glassful ($6 to $11).

DINNER

We snacked on a plate of goat cheese hush puppies with a glass of smooth, velvety Cabernet Sauvignon XS ($6) while deciding on dinner. Starters included house-made truffled gnocchi ($9), light dumplings enlivened with a sprinkling of gorgonzola cheese -- a striking, tasty combination.

Outstanding for overall tantalizing seasonings, paella Catalan (missing from the current menu) featured shrimp, bite-size pieces of chicken, green olives, chorizo sausage and a scattering of pimiento nesting amid a mound of basmati rice topped with fluffs of saffron foam, called espuma, on the menu.

Papardelle Bolognese ($17), a house-made ribbon pasta classically sauced and served with Grana Padano cheese, satisfies the lustiest and the pickiest of appetites. Crab cakes prepared Maryland-style ($28) and served with asparagus is particularly tasty, and so is the salmon ($23) with its mushroom crust and cauliflower-lime puree complement.

The thick vanilla-bean-flecked creme brulee ($7), adorned with its appropriately crackly top, elevates this popular dessert to new heights.

NOT TO BE PICKY, BUT...

On both of my visits, I was seated in the City Bar area with no mention by the hostess or server of the dining possibilities in the beautiful Kitchen at 202 room, which I discovered when my husband walked around the place on a self-appointed tour. (We knew we had to return just to dine in Kitchen 202 and should make those specific reservations.)

THE BOTTOM LINE

Chef Scott treats food with the greatest respect, and he deserves accolades for well-executed, sophisticated and delicious fare. He maintains tight quality control over preparations and said that even the smallest complaint receives his personal attention. The owners, doctors Steve Rosenoff and Paul Richards, earn full credit for creating this tremendously inspired restaurant for Roanoke, which serves some of the best food for miles around.

YOU TELL US Post your own review on our online dining guide. Some posts could be selected for publication. Go to www.roanoke.com/entertainment and click on "Food."

202 Market

Rating: 5 stars (out of 5)

Menu: Contemporary American/Progressive American

Where: 202 Market Square, downtown Roanoke

Hours: Full menu served 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday (full menu) and 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Prices: Snacks (tapas-style morsels): $5; starters: $7-$12; entrees: $17-$29; desserts: $7

Opened: April

Alcohol? Cocktails; expensive global wines; numerous wines by the glass; draft and bottled beers

Soda products: Coca-Cola

House-made desserts? Yes, prepared fresh daily

Plastic? All major credit cards accepted

Smoking? No, not even outside

Takeout? Yes

Delivery? No

Wireless Internet? Yes

Kids menu? No

Reservations? Recommended; may be made by phone, fax or on opentable.com

Live music? Yes

Call: (540) 343-6644

Fax: 904-2350

Net: 202market.net

What the stars mean

5 Excellent. A one-of-a-kind experience.

4 Very good. Memorable menus accompanied by exciting environs and/or savvy service.

3 Good. Solid places that beckon with generally appealing cooking.

2 Just OK. A place not worth rushing back to. But, it might have something worth recommending: A view, a single dish, friendly service, lively scene.

1 Poor. Don't waste your money here.