Kyle Green | The Roanoke Times

Rachel Martin tends the bar at Tony Pope Bistro & Wine Bar

Tony Pope Bistro and Wine Bar

• Rating: 5 stars (out of 5)
• Review it yourself: On our dining guide

DOLORES' PAST RATINGS

Nico's Ristorante and Cafe, downtown Roanoke (May 10)

• 4 stars (out of five)

The Seafood Co., Roanoke (April 5)

• 4 ½

Carrabba's Italian Grill, Valley View Mall (March 15)

• 3

What the stars mean

• 5 stars Excellent. A one-of-a-kind experience.
• 4 Very good. Memorable menus accompanied by exciting environs and/or savvy service.
• 3 Good. Solid places that beckon with generally appealing cooking.
• 2 Just OK. A place not worth rushing back to. But, it might have something worth recommending: A view, a single dish, friendly service, lively scene.
• 1 Poor. Don’t waste your money here.

THE VIBE

For the past decade, I've reviewed the handful of restaurants that have opened in the charming Colonial house on Crystal Spring Avenue next to the 7-Eleven. At the outset, I enjoyed each new place for its particular style of food and hospitality. Somehow, their focus and pride in preparation went adrift. That was then.

Now I'm crazy about Tony Pope Bistro and Wine Bar, which opened in February at the same lovely house. I absolutely love the warmth and hospitality chef/owner Tony Pope has infused his place with -- he even brings dinner to the tables occasionally -- and on his return trips to the kitchen, he may stop by to make real conversation with guests.

Under normal circumstances, the wait staff provides smooth and efficient service. As with typical bistros all over France, Tony Pope is an informal, comfortable place serving meticulously prepared meals at reasonable prices, to be enjoyed with an evening's featured wines by the bottle or glass.

WHO IS TONY POPE?

Born and raised in West Virginia, Pope graduated from Johnson & Wales University (Charleston, S.C.) with a major in culinary arts. He was executive chef at Buckhead Diner in Atlanta before returning to Charleston, where he opened Zinc Bistro with a partner. Prior to opening his own place in Roanoke, Pope's last gig was at Wertz's, where his food created a sensation. He likes having his own restaurant, making subtle changes to the daily menu and developing dishes around the fresh produce he gets from growers in Floyd.

LUNCH

The menu is divided into four categories: soups and salads ($6-$9), panini sandwiches ($6-$8), gourmet burgers ($9-$10) and homemade pasta and fresh fish ($7-$10).

If the soup du jour is chef's bouillabaisse, I recommend it. Its layers of seasonings and variety of fish remind me of the most memorable seafood soups I enjoyed in Provence, France, at Chez Gilbert, located in the small, bustling port of Cassis. There's also a venison chili with butternut squash, which I never tasted, but two men at an adjacent table waxed poetic over each spoonful and suggested I order a bowlful. Unfortunately, the kitchen served them the last of it. I consoled myself with a plate of white-wine-and-garlic-steamed mussels surrounding a generous mound of linguine adorned with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese shavings. Outstanding.

The panini sandwiches are constructed on rustic bread that stands up to the toasting and pressing. An abundance of quality ingredients complemented by a flavorful spread -- such as grainy mustard aioli with ham and Gruyere cheese, or garlic mayo enhancing rare roast beef and cheddar -- fills these sandwiches, which a grill press transforms into crispy golden-brown miracles. A small salad of mixed greens dressed with citrus vinaigrette comes with all sandwiches.

DINNER

From the moment I looked at the evening's dinner menu, there was no doubt this was my kind of place. With its sophisticated offerings divided into appetizers ($6-$9), signature small plates ($8-$12), dinner entrees ($22-$32) and desserts ($6-$9), I didn't know where to begin. All of them sounded divine.

The Thai barbecue duck breast salad was one of the more unusual items. Tender and mildly spiced, it was served slightly warm and came with crunchy, hazelnut-coated goat-cheese fritters. Butternut squash bisque, a smooth, warm and creamy soup, satisfied my pining for a luxurious starter.

My dinner partner and I ordered chilled Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc ($7 a glass) to go with our main courses from the small-plate selections. She relished her chopped Scottish salmon cakes combined with apple curry aioli and grilled baby bok choy, the latter described as "salty for most tastes," but not hers.

I adored my Low Country shrimp and grits with andouille sausage served two different ways. On the first occasion, three large shrimp rested on a mound of smooth-as-velvet grits surrounded by a puddle of tomato sauce. Superb. Another time, four large shrimp nestled with a rise of grits were encircled with an exceptionally tasty mahogany-hued sauce. Fantastic.

Richly flavored braised beef cheeks highlight Pope's skill in bringing succulence to an otherwise chewy meat. A hefty, grilled pork chop is tender and delicious and highly recommended.

DESSERTS

Pastry chef Kelly Morrison graduated from Johnson & Wales University (Providence, R.I.) with a major in pastry arts. She prepares her pastry specialties with care and expertise. Her desserts are the perfect way to finish off one of Pope's exceptional meals.

Go for the luscious creme brulee trio served in espresso cups (vanilla, mango and coconut cream). Or the warm blueberry turnover with cinnamon vanilla ice cream adorned with blueberry coulis. Strawberry almond Napoleon with mascarpone chantilly cream and marinated strawberries must be experienced -- it's pure pleasure.

Tony Pope serves freshly brewed espresso, and a double makes an ideal, sophisticated conclusion to a splendid meal.

NOT TO BE PICKY, BUT....

My first lunch was a minor letdown: Because there wasn't an explicit description of the salmon cake on the menu, I was surprised by what was served. Instead of a burger-like salmon cake, I got just-about-cooked chopped salmon mixed with curry-seasoned mayonnaise neatly placed on the bottom half of a toasted roll. After a couple of forkfuls, I decided the ingredients battled one another, and I left it on the plate. After enjoying many meals here, I know this incident was an anomaly.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Tony Pope's take on the classic bistro concept is perfect for Roanoke and the neighborhood. His generally outstanding cuisine and single-page wine list comes with reasonable prices and something for every taste. Tony Pope Bistro and Wine Bar is the comfortable place a lot of us have been waiting for, and I hope it's around for a long time.

Tony Pope Bistro and Wine Bar

Rating: 5 stars (out of 5)

Menu: Typical bistro

Where: 2123 Crystal Spring Ave., Roanoke

Prices: Lunch: $5-$10; Dinner: $6-$32

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Soda products: Coca-Cola

Alcohol? Beer, wine and cocktails

Plastic? Visa, MasterCard and American Express

Smoking? No

Wireless Internet? No

Takeout? Yes

Delivery? No

Patio seating? Yes

Reservations? Preferred

Live music? Not yet

Call: (540) 206-2611

Fax: (540) 904-2350

• No kids’ menu, but the chef will make special items by request.
• High chairs available.
• Quiet dining room with low background music.