In "Infused: 100+ Recipes for Infused Liqueurs and Cocktails" (Chronicle Books, $19.95), Susan Elia MacNeal captures the infusion trend, urging readers to make their own flavored spirits.

"Mass-produced and overpriced, flavored vodkas have proliferated, and drinks using them have become so widespread ... that it's easy to forget that flavored vodkas, as well as brandies, rums, tequilas and gins, have a long and distinguished history," she reminds us.

Stating her case for the simplicity of making infused spirits, MacNeal sets out a standard procedure that can be applied to about any fresh ingredient: Put the spirit in a clean glass container; add fresh fruit (or other flavoring agent or agents); steep (usually at least a month); strain, discarding solids; add sweetener (such as simple syrup), if you wish.

The recipes are variations on that theme, but MacNeal also offers some great hints:

• Vodka, rum, tequila (especially blanco or silver) and brandy are the best choices; cognac and bourbon also are suggested.

• Use good-quality spirits, but premium is not necessary. "Middle-of-the-road brands are more neutral tasting" and will carry flavors better, she writes.

• However, do use the best infusing ingredients you can find: in-season, organically and locally grown produce; freshest, best-quality spices and cocoas.

• Choose a glass container that leaves little air inside, because oxygen can cause fermentation (a bad word in infusing).

• Get creative when choosing sweeteners (again, if you decide to sweeten). A sweetener such as lavender honey or dark brown sugar would "add another note of complexity."

APRICOT LIQUEUR

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Standing time: 2 months

Yield: 750 milliliters

This recipe is adapted from "Infused: 100+ Recipes for Infused Liqueurs and Cocktails," by Susan Elia MacNeal. She suggests saving the spirits bottle, cleaning it and removing the label, then storing your finished infused vodka (or liqueur, as she calls it) inside. However, if you choose to add the syrup, you'll need a larger glass container. We also thought that adding some fresh grated ginger root with the apricots would be a great variation.

1 bottle (750 milliliters) vodka, brandy, rum or cognac

15 to 18 fresh apricots, thoroughly washed

¼ to 1 cup simple syrup, optional, see note

1. Pour vodka into a clean 2-quart glass container with a tight-fitting lid. Cut apricots in half, reserving pits. Slice apricots thinly; add apricots and pits to vodka, stirring well. Allow to infuse away from direct sunlight and intense heat for 1 month, shaking container a few times each week.

2. When satisfied with intensity of flavor, strain the liqueur through a fine strainer into a bowl; discard apricots and pits. Add sugar syrup to taste, if desired. Pour liqueur into the original bottle (or other glass container), using a funnel. Label with name of the infusion and date. Age for 1 month away from light and heat.

Note: To make simple syrup, heat 1 cup of water and 2 cups of sugar to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring continuously. Reduce the heat to medium-low; cook, stirring, until sugar dissolves. Cool; refrigerate in a clean, sealed container up to 6 months.