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Wade Anderson | Special to The Roanoke Times

Deep reds, mustard yellows and dark-stained wood strike a nice balance between upscale and casual.

In this time of economic upheaval, one might be surprised to find a new (and pricey) restaurant like Pomegranate in an even unlikelier location -- Botetourt County, far from downtown Roanoke's established upscale eateries.

Pomegranate, which opened in November, operates under the capable hands of general manager Alejandro Rivera, a former manager at Roanoke's esteemed Frankie Rowland's Steakhouse, while John Queen, a former chef at Frankie's, oversees the kitchen.

THE VIBE

Pomegranate's entrance reveals a small, loungelike seating area and bar that slices the restaurant in half -- the dining room is on one side and a sizable special events room on the other. With deep (dare we say pomegranate) reds, mustard yellows and rich, dark-stained wood, the vibe strikes a nice balance between upscale and casual without the stuffiness one might expect given the prices.

THE FOOD

According to Rivera, I visited on Pomegranate's busiest night so far, which explains why it ran out of the halibut entree I had planned to order. The New York strip and chocolate creme brulee were also unavailable (though I eventually sampled the delicious vanilla brulee, $6, instead).

My table of four began our adventure with tapas and other small appetizers. The scrumptious potato leek and corn fritters ($5) had a surprisingly spicy kick while the goat-cheese-stuffed shrimp ($13) offered a succulently sweet pairing. I found the underseasoned lamb meatballs with ricotta cheese ($9) the only disappointment among the appetizers as it was difficult to detect all but the faintest lamb flavor.

Of the four entrees, two were particular standouts. My wife's superb 10-ounce filet mignon ($35), drizzled with a wonderfully intense wild mushroom reduction, was, flavorwise, one of the best around -- perfectly medium, aside from a small section that was slightly undercooked. My friend's splendidly seared duck breast ($26) had just the right amount of pink in the center, and its green peppercorn sauce was a welcome change from the fruit compotes that usually accompany duck.

Without being asked, our waiter offered to substitute a tuna fillet ($32) in lieu of the halibut, which I accepted. The high-quality fillet was tasty and mild, though like the lamb meatballs, it would have benefited from a little additional seasoning. The roasted poblano shrimp sauce that accompanied the tuna was creamy and smoky but a tad thin. The dish was good, not great.

My remaining dining companion ordered a seared 16-ounce pork chop ($27) of considerable thickness with ancho brown sugar rub and roasted tomato demi-glace. Like my tuna, the chop was cooked to medium, which kept it tender and juicy. I prefer my pork slightly more done -- something my friend conceded would have made her happier. But since our waiter informed us when we ordered how the pork would be cooked, any failure to request another temperature rests on us, not the restaurant. Rivera subsequently told me that Pomegranate is not the type of place that expects you to eat a dish the way it is prepared by the chef; they will prepare anything to your liking.

Finally, I note that a few of our dishes were not as hot as they should have been, a complaint I've heard from others.

Side items at pomegranate are a la carte and served family style for sharing. I'm a big fan of the pan-seared Brussels sprouts. Pomegranate offers diners the delightful choice to "infuse" their mashed potatoes with a variety of flavorings that can be mixed in. We ordered a full order ($8) infused with roasted poblano peppers and bacon but, fortunately it turns out, our waiter brought us a half-serving, so he brought us a half-order ($4) of the chipotle-infused potatoes to try. Both were creamy and delicious, though I preferred the mild pepper taste of the poblano over the slightly sharper chipotle.

After all this, we enjoyed a few desserts, all of which are made in-house. Aside from the satisfactory vanilla creme brulee, we sampled a trio of small cheesecakes ($6): lemon grass, chocolate cappuccino and honey ginger. All were good, but the latter had a pleasingly pungent ginger bite. We were supposed to share, but I had a hard time letting go of the divine buttered black rum cake ($6) with walnuts, molasses and dried cherries swimming with homemade ice cream and caramelized bananas.

THE SERVICE

Pomegranate's service at dinner appears to be a team effort, but the primary responsibility during our visit fell on an entirely knowledgeable, attentive and competent waiter. Our glasses never wanted for wine or water, and he was quick to make appropriate suggestions from the menu or wine list, which offered many affordable options.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Pomegranate's menu changes seasonally, and though it's only a 20-minute drive from downtown, there may be those who consider it too far for frequent visits. That's a shame. They'll be missing competent, inventive dishes executed in a pleasant atmosphere. I expect to be there often.