www.roanoke.com

A new front has opened close to home in my personal battle of the bulge.

Blue Collar Joe's, a coffee and doughnut shop, opened in early October in a converted gas station within a half-mile of my home. Moreover, the drive-through window is easily accessible on my way to work.

Although Joe's does not offer indoor dining, some seating is available on numerous benches and several tables outside.

THE MENU

Proprietor Dan Knight hails from Philadelphia, though he's lived in Daleville since 1994. His doughnuts are "cake style" -- more like Dunkin' Donuts than Krispy Kreme -- and they come in flavors that might surprise Willy Wonka. Sure, there's the standard vanilla, chocolate, blueberry and lemon, but how about apple cider, black forest, cherry glazed and German chocolate? Some are festooned with grated coconut, chopped nuts, broken Reese's Pieces and even trail mix. Oh, and did I mention the one topped with bacon?

Knight makes his doughnuts in small batches throughout the day so fresh flavors stay in the case. The downside is that they might not have your favorite flavor. The upside is that no matter when you go in, a fresh batch is usually available.

In addition to the doughnuts, Joe's serves a wide range of coffee, lattes, ice cream and smoothies.

WHAT I TRIED

I cannot recall eating one disappointing doughnut during my visits -- and I've tried too many to review each one here. Caramel apple is one of my favorites. It is a deliciously moist and sweet apple cider doughnut, with a honey vanilla glaze and a graham cracker crust drizzled in caramel. The German chocolate doughnut has been perfected with caramel icing and a nut crunch, with a mix of toasted and untoasted coconut on top. Lemon with lemon glaze is another favorite. Finally, the blueberry with maple glaze topped with finely chopped bacon is actually quite good -- the bacon tones down the sweetness; it tastes like a blueberry pancake breakfast you can hold in your hand.

THE SERVICE

Joe's provides fast and ultrafriendly service. In fact, Knight himself is likely to serve you.

THE NAME

To be honest, I didn't care for the name Blue Collar Joe's initially. I was perplexed why a new business located along Botetourt County's U.S. 220 corridor, home to a burgeoning population of white-collar residents, would market themselves in such a way. The name, however, resulted from Knight's enthusiastic involvement in animal rescue. One day he transported a floppy-eared dog with a blue collar named Joe, and the rest is history.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Blue Collar Joe's serves some of the best tasting doughnuts I've ever had -- and I've had plenty. Knight is a genuinely nice guy who makes customers feel welcome and clearly takes prides in what he sells. In tough economic times, Joe's offers an affordable and delicious indulgence. Meanwhile, there are still plenty of doughnuts left for me to try -- the Botetourt Bog, a triple-chocolate doughnut topped with crushed Oreo cookies, comes to mind.