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The delicious, plump fava beans were served with marvelous pita bread.

More Than Coffee is typically dark inside -- sit by the window if you want bright light.

On my first culinary expedition to Blacksburg, I found myself caught in detours and one-way streets. I unwittingly had selected the day when Steppin' Out, the arts and crafts fair, dominated downtown. After finding a parking spot (and writing down the cross streets), I hastened to find More Than Coffee, the Mediterranean restaurant lots of folks have been talking about. As my luck for the day continued, I couldn't get near the entrance where a jam-packed crowd waited to get in; so, in desperation, I went elsewhere to ease my hunger.

I made two more trips to More Than Coffee, arriving well before noon so I wouldn't have to wait in line for a table -- a daily occurrence. More Than Coffee is more than just an ordinary Mediterranean restaurant. Specifically, it's unusual because the menu features authentic Lebanese food with some American and Italian crowd pleasers added to the mix. Of course, coffee is on the menu, too. Mugs of American coffee and one-shots of Arabian and Turkish coffee are available for $1.50.

The only unsettling aspect of entering More Than Coffee was that one of the plate-glass front doors had substantial cracks in it. Owner Eid Rustom said the cracks originated three years ago when employees hit the door while moving a table outside.

MEET THE OWNER

Rustom opened More Than Coffee in 2003 after having operated Emilio's, another restaurant, located next door, for several years. Rustom is from Lebanon, and with his wife, Katia, who occasionally prepares two special desserts, namely baklava and kunafa (the shredded phyllo pastry filled with cheese), operate a popular restaurant where a satisfying meal of freshly made, tasty Lebanese preparations offers good value for the dollar.

THE MENU

The single-page menu lists almost 50 items on both sides, and most are Lebanese specialties the curious palate finds worthy of trying. Freshly baked pita bread comes with the appetizers, and pieces torn from the balloon-shaped bread are used as scoops. These starters include balila (chickpeas dressed with olive oil and lemon juice, $5.65); Lebanese-style stuffed eggplant; and labni plate (homemade Lebanese cheese dressed with olive oil and red peppers, $6.75). To get a little bit of everything, try the maza tray, an arrangement of three different items you select from a list of seven, plus pita bread and fresh vegetables ($6.75).

Both vegetarian and specialty sandwiches have ingredients either layered in 10-inch subs ($5.95) or folded into giant pita bread wraps ($5.95). Keep Lahm-b-ageen in mind, as I'm doing. This features a 12-inch pita bread loaded with ground beef, tomatoes, pomegranate sauce and spices ($6.95).

The beef and chicken kabob platters ($8.95 to $9.50) served with fresh vegetables, hummus and a warm-from-the-oven 12-inch pita bread were the original dishes that got everyone talking and coming to More Than Coffee. The menu concludes with pizzas made the classic way using hand-tossed dough topped with marinara sauce and mozzarella ($6.25 to $9.25). It's possible to make the pizzas a complete meal with chicken ($1.50) or shrimp ($2) toppings, too. Finally there's a Lebanese house specialty, suluk calzone ($7.85), filled with Swiss chard, spinach, onions, olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, feta cheese and special spices.

WHAT I TRIED

Most of the dishes are generously portioned and therefore great for sharing. Feta plate ($6.75), a simple appetizer, is such a dish. Mounds of feta cheese, chopped tomatoes, green and black olives and shredded lettuce surround a small ramekin of well-seasoned dressing for dipping and drizzling. Hot pita bread makes a delicious accompaniment to this starter.

Foul-medamass ($5.65), the classic fava bean preparation, presents plump brown beans simmered in olive oil, garlic and lemon juice garnished with chopped onions and tomatoes, and served with marvelous pita bread. This was a delicious dish: The fava beans were cooked to tenderness, yet retained their characteristic meaty texture.

I relished every bite of shish tawook ($5.95), a giant wrap stuffed with grilled chicken pieces, fried potatoes, lettuce and tomatoes, and seasoned with garlic spread. Remarkably, neither of the halves of this thick wrap fell apart and the ingredients stayed put.

The falafel platter ($6.99) consists of three deep-fried seasoned falafel (chickpea) balls with tahini (sesame) sauce, hummus, pita bread and a side salad. Although the dark falafel bordered on overly fried dryness, the sauces added moisture and flavor.

Because all of the food that mattered was so good, I forgave them for serving me a piece of frozen cheesecake. I promised myself to return, and with a little luck, Katia Rustom will have made her baklava.

THE BOTTOM LINE

It was a real pleasure eating at this engaging Mediterranean restaurant. More Than Coffee's unfussy, colorful Lebanese preparations are nutritious, fun to eat and moderately priced. And maybe the next time I visit, the cracked front door will be replaced.