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Thursday, November 15, 2007

An easier feast by shortcut expert Andrew Schloss

Delicious ways to take stress off your menu

'Homemade in a Hurry' by Andrew Schloss

"Homemade in a Hurry" by Andrew Schloss

I'm sure Thursday seemed like a perfectly good day for a Thanksgiving holiday when Abraham Lincoln enshrined the date in 1863, but the timing isn't kind to 21st century home cooks with day jobs to juggle.

That's why I was delighted to find a volume by one of my favorite shortcut-cooking experts, Andrew Schloss, when I began searching cookbooks for holiday inspiration. Schloss has a genius for marshaling high-quality convenience products in the cause of good eating.

We're not talking cream of mushroom soup. In "Homemade in a Hurry" (Chronicle Book, $19.95), he exploits the time-saving, flavor-boosting potential of salsas, curry sauces, fruit preserves, nut butters and the like, combining them with fresh produce and meats in delectable dishes you'll be proud to serve.

How does he recommend tackling Thanksgiving?

"The main thing about timing in any feasting meal is to figure out what your life is like," Schloss said in a telephone interview from his Pennsylvania home. "That pretty much determines what tricks you're going to use."

For those of us who can find an hour a day to chip away at task, he suggests a menu of side dishes and desserts that hold and reheat well -- gratins, moist purees and braises, non-cream pies.

Here are three side suggestions:

ALMOND-BUTTERED GREEN BEANS

Brilliantly simple and wonderfully flavorful, these beans blew me away. (Look for almond butter on the cereal aisle or near the peanut butter at your supermarket.)

Do-ahead tip: Prep the beans up to two days ahead, wrap in a kitchen towel and refrigerate in a loosely closed plastic bag. Measure butters and garlic into serving dish up to two hours before serving. (8 to 10 servings)

Rinse, trim and slice (or leave whole) 3 pound green beans.

Measure 2 tablespoons each unsalted butter and almond butter into a serving bowl.

Add 1 teaspoon minced garlic and ¼ to ½ teaspoon salt.

Cook the beans in a large pot of boiling water for 4 to 5 minutes, until bright green and tender-crisp; drain well.

Add the hot beans to the serving dish, and stir to coat with the butters and garlic.

Garnish with toasted almond slices, and serve immediately.

Source: Adapted from "Almost From Scratch," by Andrew Schloss (Simon & Schuster, $25).

CORN BREAD (AND CHIP) DRESSING

Fritos aren't usually on my shopping list, but they add a deep, toasty corn flavor to this dish, from a book by the founder of the Super Suppers meal-assembly franchise. It was a hit with our dressing minimalists, none of whom could guess the secret ingredient.

Do-ahead tip: Can be assembled and refrigerated up to three days ahead. (8 to 10 servings)

Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium heat.

Add 2 (10-ounce) bags frozen chopped onion, celery, bell pepper and parsley (labeled "seasoning blend").

Saute until liquid evaporates and vegetables soften.

Sprinkle with 1 to 2 teaspoons each dried sage and thyme; cook 1 minute.

Crumble an 8- or 9-inch pan of corn bread into a large bowl (about 6 cups coarse crumbs; from a mix is fine).

Stir in 1 cup crushed Fritos corn chips, 1 cup dry herb-flavored stuffing mix, 3 cups chicken or turkey broth and the sauteed vegetables.

Transfer to a greased, 2-½- to 3-quart casserole.

Bake at 350 degrees for 45 to 60 minutes, until hot and lightly browned.

Source: Adapted From "Super Suppers Cookbook," by Judie Byrd (Meredith, $19.95).

CIDER-GINGER SWEET POTATOES

These addictively delicious sweets -- developed by Rozanne Gold of "Recipes 1-2-3" fame -- were the star of our tasting. Their rich flavor and luscious texture will have you coming back for thirds.

Do-ahead tip: Make up to three days ahead and refrigerate; reheat in the microwave. (8 servings)

Bake 2 ½ to 3 pounds sweet potatoes (3 medium-large) in a 350-degree oven until tender, about 1 hour. (Or peel and boil them.)

When cool enough to handle, remove and discard skin, and cut potatoes into chunks.

Meanwhile, bring 4 cups apple cider (not juice), ¼ cup minced fresh ginger and 1 cinnamon stick to a boil in a saucepan.

Reduce heat to low, and simmer until syrupy and reduced to 1 cup, about 30 minutes; discard cinnamon stick.

Place potato chunks, reduced cider (with ginger), 3 tablespoons unsalted butter and 1 teaspoon salt in a food processor. (Work in batches if necessary.)

Process until very smooth. Transfer to a 2-quart casserole dish. Reheat in the microwave before serving.

Source: Adapted from Rozanne Gold in "The 150 Best American Recipes" (Houghton Mifflin, $30).

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