The interior of The Blues BBQ Co. is warm and inviting, with one wall of magnificent exposed brick accented by a gated cubbyhole containing a small stage and piano,where live music is played Thursday through Saturday nights.

Photo by Wade Anderson | Special to The Roanoke Times

The Blues BBQ Co.

• Where: 107 Market Square, downtown Roanoke
• Prices: Appetizers: $4.95 to $6.95; barbecue platters: $11.95 to $14.95; sandwiches: $8.95 to $9.95
• Hours: 11 to 1:30 a.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday.
• Soda products: Pepsi
• Alcohol? Yes, full bar
• Plastic? Visa, Discover, American Express
• Smoking? Entirely nonsmoking
• Handicapped accessibility: The Blue Ridge Independent Living Center has determined that this restaurant is accessible, based on the Americans with Disabilities Act Checklist for Readily Achievable Barrier Removal for existing facilities.
• Wireless Internet? No
• Takeout? Yes
• Delivery? No
• Patio seating? No
• Reservations? No
• Live music? Thursday through Saturday nights
• Kid friendly? Yes, high chairs and kids menu available.
• Call: (540) 344-LOVE (5683)
• Fax: (540) 344-4BBQ (4227)
• Net: bluesbbqco.com

Great-tasting barbecue has finally arrived in downtown Roanoke. The Blues BBQ Co., tucked into a corner of Market Square since October, offers both vinegar-based North Carolina-style pork barbecue and so-called Memphis-style pork barbecue with a tomato-based sweet and tangy sauce, as well as barbecue beef brisket and chicken.

THE VIBE

Blues BBQ occupies a small but cozy space next to 202 Market. The interior is warm and inviting, with one wall of magnificent exposed brick complemented by the remaining walls' hues of honey mustard and scarlet. A small stage and piano sit in a gated cubbyhole where live music is played Thursday through Saturday nights. As one would expect, blues music emanates throughout the dining room, and posters of Ray Charles, Dizzy Gillespie and Miles Davis garnish the walls.

THE FOOD

The savory, smoky Carolina-style pulled pork laced with a vinegar-based sauce is heavenly, though the homemade sauce generously seeded with red pepper flakes might be a tad spicier than traditional Tar Heel sauces.

From the choice of wood used for smoking the meats (hickory, mesquite and apple for the pork; hickory, mesquite and cherry for the brisket) to the blend of seasonings on the fries, owner Patrick Maggi has given his various menu items his personal touch. The result is a blend of dishes you're unlikely to find elsewhere in Roanoke.

The seductive sweet scallion hush puppies have a deliciously sweet cornmeal flavor with just the right amount of crispiness. The specially seasoned french fries were so addictive (though a few of mine were undercooked), that I quickly discovered why the staff affectionately refers to them as "crack fries." The tasty creamed succotash offered a velvety variation of the corn and lima bean dish that I have never encountered. Fried mac 'n' cheese is one of the few items not prepared in-house and was originally intended for kids, but adults liked it so much it's now offered as an appetizer.

Although I liked almost all of the dishes I tasted, one disappointment was the grit cakes, a deep-fried combination of grits and Romano cheese. The cakes themselves were OK, though they could have benefited from another minute or two in the fryer, but the blue cheese in the dipping sauce was entirely overpowering.

THE SERVICE

During my few visits, Blues BBQ has appeared to have a good number of employees present, and the service has always been attentive. The servers wear shirts declaring that "It's all about the love," and true to form, they seem genuinely excited to introduce you to their new restaurant and its menu. They will also likely ask if you would like to try one of Blues BBQ's approximately 80 bourbons. That's right -- the restaurant stocks nearly 80 bourbons to complement its smoked meats.

THE BOTTOM LINE

It is worth noting that some folks have complained about the lunch prices because Blues BBQ offers the same menu, with the same prices, at both lunch and dinner. With sandwiches and one side running $8.95, not including a drink, and platters with two sides running between $11.95 and $14.95, lunch is not going to be cheap. Though there are various restaurants downtown serving lunch at comparable prices, for some reason folks expect barbecue to be cheaper. Although time will tell if the prices prove an obstacle to attracting a steady lunchtime crowd, one thing is certain: The taste and quality of the food should be no barrier.

Maggi is a seven-year veteran of the venerable Old Glory Bar-B-Que in Washington, D.C. I enjoyed the restaurant often while living there, though it's certainly not the best barbecue around. His venture in Roanoke is a very welcome addition to downtown, and it will almost certainly keep me from driving elsewhere for barbecue during my workweek lunches.