Tuesday, August 26, 2003
Meet at Metro!
Larry Bly
Larry Bly runs an ad agency and does freelance writing in the Roanoke area.
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Metro! is sometimes referred to as an upscale, expensive restaurant. It is and it isn't -- expensive, that is. It just depends on how you use the menu when ordering.
But it's definitely upscale, no doubt about that.
Everyone agrees that it has a distinct New York feel, from the open dining areas with its hot, trendy spot lighting, to the wrap-around downstairs bar just off from the open kitchen. It's definitely big city.
In fact, "Meet me for drinks at Metro!" has become a standard phrase since the restaurant opened last year in downtown Roanoke. It's become a favorite before- and after-the-theater kind of place to meet and chat . . . or to make new friends late at night. There's an upstairs bar and dining area for overflow crowds.
Creating a destination restaurant downtown — defined by the food available in larger metropolitan areas — is exactly what owners Andrew Schlosser and Patience O'Brien-Schlosser set out to do.
Metro! has caught on with a menu of "Modern American," or fusion cuisine. Yes, Roanoke, we've come a long way from mashed taters and beans. Just a decade ago you would have aspersions cast upon you for using such terms as "fusion cuisine" or "Modern American."
But people like Schlosser, who have traveled the world and tasted foods from all over, now share the excitement of cooking, creating and presenting foods in a new way.
Some critics may say that it's all plate presentation and little food, but I certainly had my fill the evening I spent there. There are no dull or predictable plates coming out of this kitchen.
Each plate pops with flavor, though I didn't always know what the flavor was. They do a good job of explaining it all as they go along, and frankly, it's a lot to take in. Some of the dishes are so complex that you'd need a food dictionary to make sense of it all. But I'm glad they know what they're serving.
As I mentioned earlier, just how expensive the dining becomes depends on how smartly you use the menu. It's been set up in several ways, depending upon whether you just want to do some "Tastings," "Specials," "Courses" or "A la Carte."
On the particular evening I was there, a first course was $9 and included these choices: shrimp in spicy Thai coconut green curry; Tempura lobster roll with gorgonzola sauce; crispy veal sweetbreads, watercress soup and red pepper chantilly; potato-scallion cake, fugi apple chutney with walnut and crème fraiche; or salmon terrine with black truffle cream and Osetra caviar.
I won't list items on the second courses for $7 or the main courses at $20 a plate, but you get the idea of the sophistication of foods. Fugi apple? Say what?
In all fairness, they actually give you glossary of terms, but one could spend the evening absorbed in the vernacular and never visit with friends, which is the other half of enjoying the meal.
Chef's tasting menus run $44 for five courses and $70 for seven courses. They include selections from the main menu. Or you may choose from the night's special. On this particular evening a few of those specials included bluefin toro tartare with Osetra caviar and quail eggs, $14.
You were just thinking of fixing that at home right? Me too. Or how about calamari roll with green tea noodles and Yuzu and avocado, $8? My order featured fresh lump crab cakes pan sautéed with haricot verts and celery root puree, $22.
(My spell check is now having fits. Even it has never heard of verts. Although I will have to admit that my spell check is not that sophisticated. When I sign my name "Larr" it always tries to tell me that I'm TRYING to spell "lard". I get the hint.)
You can get sushi ala carte, a sushi sampler, grande sushi sampler or even a traditional sashimi rice bowl. Many folks order such items at the bar: a nice touch. Or order a fresh baguette sandwich — all freshly created and very reasonably priced. You can try a lot of exotic and wonderful stuff here, but you have no one to blame but yourself if you overspend.
There's a fabulous wine list. Or order mixed beverages from the bars. Despite the size and openness of the dining area, our group felt comfortable with the usual nonsensical patter and laughter without fear of bothering others — and vice versa.
The wait staff is young but knowledgeable (they'd have to be with this menu) and the service attentive without being intrusive. For me, this is a "special night out" kind of place. On the other hand, it's always a great night to meet someone at the Metro! bar for fun and conversation!
The folks at Metro!, by the way, spent way too much money on their press kit, but it's great fun if you can get one. In addition to the photos, information sheet and business card, you can enjoy a CD-ROM presentation with music, great graphics, some kitchen presentations and finally -- a cockpit view of landing a plane at the airport.
Metro! has landed, indeed!
Metro!
Modern American Restaurant & Lounge
14 Campbell Ave. SE
Roanoke, Va.
(540) 345-6645
