Wednesday, January 03, 2007
Taaza Indian Cuisine a winner
Larry Bly
Larry Bly has plenty on his plate these days. He's got two TV shows on Cox Cable Roanoke. Click ahead for details and showtimes.
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Can the Roanoke Valley support a third full-time Indian restaurant? It's already supporting at least two full-time Indian grocery stores on Brambleton Avenue alone, so yes, why not?
The Taaza Indian Cuisine is located in the former DJ's Brasserie, which opted to close the long time family enterprise after many decades of serving Greek and American dishes.
The Taaza folks have changed it up a bit, adding a buffet area for lunches and making nice with the decor in a classy, but understated way. The evening presentation of crisp napkins, white tablecloths, plus a handsome wait-staff in dressy attire makes for a formal but not stuffy dining experience.
Taaza is interesting in that it serves specialties from several regions of India. The menu has offerings under these headings: Dosa Corner, Tandoori (clay oven items), and an Indo-Chinese fusion section. I've had both the buffet and a sit-down from the menu dinner and the quality is top-drawer all the way.
Now I don't know a mysore from a masala, but I know fresh ingredients when I taste them and the chef is creating some very fresh fare. Two appetizers of note from the very long list include the salt & pepper mushroom, maybe one of the best appetizers I've had in some time, and the "drums of heaven", which are "chicken lollipops" battered and fried and tossed with a sweet chili sauce. Even without the sauce they're delicious.
You may choose from at least 14 other appetizers.
Soups and salads offer up rasam (a traditional south Indian spicy soup with lentils), chicken coconut and okra, spicy lamb and vegetable soup.
Trying hard to avoid something with which I'd be disappointed and attempting to avoid a spicy hot dish for my tender late-evening stomach, I chose, from the Indo-Chinese fusion entree, the chicken with cashew nuts, which to me sounded tame and predictable. It was neither. Despite being asked the level of hotness I preferred, it still came with a heat that had my head on fire. But it was SO delicious -- chicken marinated and flame-broiled with crispy cashews. It was unlike anything I've ever had. Seldom can I claim that a too-hot item was made more than palatable by the mere sensation of the flavors of the dish. Sweat or no, I ate this one up.
The Tandoori items from the clay oven: murgh tikka, tandoori murgh, Hara Bhara kebab (didn't Harabara do those Flintstone cartoons?), Tandoori Jheegna, lamb chops, and chef's mixed grill.
Taaza specials include lamb Vindaloo (succulent boneless pieces of lamb cooked in a spicy hot curry sauce), fish Anarkali (salmon fish pieces marinated in yogurt and spices, cooked in Tandoor) and shrimp Jalfrazi (shrimp tossed with vegetables.)
Home style entrees (served with basmati rice) include various lentil dishes and other non-meat treats made with chick peas or mushrooms or assorted vegetables. It's a vegetarian's delight.
One of my fellow diners braved a goat curry dish called "Amma's Momusam Koora." There are several goat dishes on the menu and I'm told by management that they're surprised at the popularity of those dishes. Frankly I've not given much thought to goat and doubt that I ever will. But my friend went away pleased with his dish, even if he did try to eat the silverware before we left.
I've enjoyed the variety of fresh breads offered here: Naan (unleavened bread in tandoor), Lasooni Naan (topped with garlic/butter), Keema Naan (stuffed with minced, spiced lamb), Kulcha onion/paneer (stuffed with choice of onion/paneer), Paratha (multi-layered whole wheat, Roti (whole wheat) Aloo paratha (unleavened whole wheat with mildly spiced mashed potatoes) and Poori (deep fried traditional Indian bread).
I have a lot to learn about Indian cuisine and I'm sure I'll enjoy learning it from the Taaza folks, who were more than a little attentive to our table. In fact, one friend complained that they were overzealous in their attempts to impress. That's the first time he ever complained about service being too good. You just can't please some people, no matter.
I'm not big on Indian desserts, but here's a good one at Taaza: Orange kulfi is homemade ice cream with Grand Marnier Liquor served in an orange skin. Who couldn't like that?
Beverages include yogurt drinks, various juices, chai latte, tropical fruit punches, ice tea or green tea, and soft drinks. Mixed beverages are available from the bar.
Taaza Indian Cuisine
117 Duke of Gloucester St.
Roanoke, Va. 24014
(540) 342-4773
