Wednesday, December 20, 2006
Good eats and no reservation required at the Sun Dance Cafe
Larry Bly
Larry Bly runs an ad agency and does freelance writing in the Roanoke area.
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Sun Dance Cafe is a rather unlikely name for a restaurant in downtown Roanoke, but then "Roanoke" is an Indian word. The logo and graphic have more to do with Native Americans from the Wild West, with its stylized chief playing an instrument in front of a mountain butte. If you look on the back of the menu, you'll get an explanation: "The Kokopelli is a mythical humpbacked flute player that has been known to symbolize fertility, replenishment, music, dance, and mischief..." Well come to think of it, I did feel more fertile after being there. But I'm sure you don't need to hear any more about that.
Whatever it all means, The Sun Dance Cafe serves up some plenty good eats, Kimosabe. Open for breakfast and lunch only, this restaurant is in the former location of The Bistro on Campbell, just down a half block from The Roanoke Times. In fact I'm told by co-owner, Sharon Gentilini, that those hard-working Times people help keep them busy for breakfast most weekday mornings.
Can't get the paper out on a hungry stomach!
I've been there for lunch several times and have yet to be disappointed, though I did think that the meatloaf was rather tame. It's a meatloaf sandwich. They need to kick it up a notch or two. But most of their sandwiches are bountiful and flavorful. You won't leave hungry, buddy.
To my notion, their soups are worthy of praise. I've tried several -- a potato and bacon soup recently caught my eye. The cup was huge, the soup was red hot (you'll find a lot of tepid soup in these parts), and it was just brimming with potatoes and bacon. Truly a hearty soup for these cold days. I also tried a house chili: white with chicken, I think. It was delicious, but was more the consistency of a soup than a chili. I liked it anyway.
One of my favorite sandwiches is the marinated chicken breast on sourdough. You can do a soup combo (soup of the day) with a choice of ham or turkey, roast beef or chicken salad (also first-rate).
I'm usually trying a salad most days -- just call me Mr. Four By Four -- so I've done a few of those too: Chef, grilled chicken (excellent), and wraps of all sorts. I'm not a wrap kind of guy, so I'll pass on that.
The burgers are big a juicy; your choice of American, Swiss or Provolone cheese, all served with those fabulous Buffalo chips and pickle. I'm new to the buffalo chip fan club, but I love them. They're fairly close to the old fried potatoes Toot's used to cook in a big iron skillet on top of the stove -- sliced, deep fried in this case and heavily salted. You can get buffalo chips any number of places now -- it's right off the U.S. Foods truck -- but it's better than French fries in my book. And why I'd have French fries in my book I haven't a clue.
There are few downtown breakfast places anymore -- Ernie's, of course, Tudor's Biscuits, Aesy's way up on Campbell, and some others. Now we can add Sun Dance Cafe to the list. The breakfast menu is nearly as extensive as lunch: eggs of all kinds, done to order, biscuits and biscuits meals, hot cakes, breakfast sandwiches, omelet, biscuits and gravy, and even cinnamon buns and breakfast cakes. You know the drill.
This restaurant has only been open a short time and it already seems to have a following. The tables are sort of big, but comfortable. They take up way too much room --the smallish space could use a few more "two-tops." I went in alone one day and felt like I was taking up half the room while people were waiting to be seated.
There is no counter.
The service is polite and peppy, the food hot and delicious and freshly prepared. Breakfast was originally served all day, but they've come to their senses and now cut off breakfast meals at 11 a.m. or so. The small kitchen made it difficult to run both breakfast and lunch together.
They offer Wi-Fi wireless Internet access, so you can plug in, turn on, and tune out right on Campbell in front of everyone.
The Sun Dance Cafe
135 Campbell Ave.
Roanoke, VA 24011
(540) 345-2403
FAX to go orders: 345-2530
Mon-Sat: 7:30 a.m. - 3 p.m.
