Wednesday, June 30, 2004
“Dubya” and I agree on Baltimore’s La Scala
Larry Bly
Larry Bly runs an ad agency and does freelance writing in the Roanoke area.
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I've eaten at more than my share of places where presidents have dined: The Homestead, The Hotel Willard and the Mayflower Hotel's famous Cafe' Promenade in Washington, D.C.
Recently while vacationing in the Baltimore area, some friends walked the streets of Little Italy to fulfill my wish of "a fabulous Italian place that's a rare find." On the outside, La Scala looks about like any other of the dozens of Italian restaurants you'll find there, but once inside, you know you've hit paydirt.
First stop is the bar, adorned with pictures of famous people who have eaten at La Scala, including "W," the current President George Bush. He actually didn't eat here . . . he ordered take out. Odds are it was the best take-out meal he's ever had.
La Scala is a series of three or four small, darkened rooms, upstairs and down; very intimate with service to match. Everything is made to order; so you are encouraged to be creative and if they have it, they'll do their best to prepare it.
Our foursome agreed that what came out of the kitchen this particular evening was some of the finest restaurant food we've ever experienced. Period. Service begins with freshly made bread, a bottle of fine olive oil and some butter. We wisely went easy on the bread, wishing to make room for a few other samplings from the menu.
I started with artichoke hearts topped with jumbo lump crabmeat, huge capers and lemon butter sauce. It was so good that I nearly passed out. And plentiful as well. Granted it's a $13 appetizer, but when in Rome! A friend had the bruschetta. Other "antipasti" include pepperoni con acciughe (green peppers sautéed with olive oil, garlic, capers, and anchovies), Polenta all griglia (Cognac, pancetta and porcini mushroom sauce) and Funghi Abbruzzese (fresh mushrooms sautéed with olive oil, garlic, basil and rosemary topped with melted mozzarella).
No one tried the soup or the four lovely salads offered. The choice of an entree is complicated mightily by the "announced specials for the evening." Several friends had a special, but I forged ahead with one of the menu's most decadent offerings: Scaloppe di Manzo alla Terra e Mare (I beg your pardon?) which is: filet mignon grilled to perfection, served over veal scaloppini, topped with jumbo gulf shrimp and cognac sauce. Talk about surf and turf!! This dish was unbelievable.
Plate presentations are simple but elegant. The food's the star here — no prissy presentations to get in the way of eating. Another dining friend had the La Valdaostana Originale, which is a 16-ounce, center-cut veal chop stuffed with prosciutto and fontina cheeses. Both entrees were well on the upper end of the menu price, around $30 or less. Yes, we were extravagant, but it’s rare when I get to a place like this and I didn't hold back. There are other steak offerings, too, plus plenty of chicken entrees for those on a budget, and pasta items well under $15 that would be delicious and filling too, such as spaghetti alla puttanesca, penn alla vodka, fettucini alfredo, spaghetti alla Carbonara, risotto mare e monti (shrimp and porcini mushrooms) and fettuccini verdi alla Amatricina (fresh spinach fetuccini with prosciuotto pancetta, onion, garlic and tomato).
The menu is printed daily and "sealed" on the edge so you get to "discover" the delicacies offered within with this simple but classy presentation. Our server was well informed and very helpful. He assured us that satisfaction was absolutely guaranteed. It's right there, printed on the menu by "Nino" the owner/chef: "If you have a special request or you wish an item that's not on our menu, just ask, we'll be happy to help."
Drink service was fast and efficient; and the wine selection extensive. A suggestion by the waiter for our evening red wine turned out to be perfect for this meal. We even managed to make room for two of the offered desserts — tiramisu and cannoli — absolutely sinful.
One more thing you have to love about this place: people won't be sitting around yapping on cell phones. The request to turn them off is printed on the menu. That means you're in for a quiet and lovely evening of fine dining; and some of the best and freshest food as well.
Before or after your meal, take a few minutes to walk the streets of Little Italy and talk to the people. I did and found the place friendly and enchanting; and it merely added to my evening out.
La Scala
1012 Eastern Ave.
Baltimore, Md.
(410) 783-9209
