Wednesday, June 09, 2004
Breakfast al fresco
Larry Bly
Larry Bly runs an ad agency and does freelance writing in the Roanoke area.
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I've always thought that the Crystal Spring area of Roanoke was one of the most beautiful and placid neighborhoods in the city. There are others, but Crystal Spring a unique charm. It reminds me a little bit of Georgetown. I've eaten outdoors at Dean and Deluca's in Georgetown, and it has the same feel.
Long before it was fashionable (or even legal) for street-side dining downtown, the Crystal Spring Deli, now a Famous Anthony's, offered dining outdoors during the spring and summer months. People have long flocked there, especially for breakfast, once the seasonal warmth allowed. Sitting outside among the stately shade trees in this quiet South Roanoke neighborhood is good for the soul and the stomach.
Lately, the area has attained added status as a breakfast/brunch outdoors destination. Eric's Restaurant recently opened down the street from Famous Anthony’s and took up the space once occupied by Napa Alley, a restaurant that lasted about 15 minutes. I predict that Eric's will last a lot longer, judging by the crowds I've seen there for lunch and dinner recently.
Eric's, like Anthony's, offers plenty of outdoor tables for dining amid the singing birds. On one bright and beautiful Sunday a few weeks ago, it was wonderful to see so many people enjoying outdoor dining. Heck, Crystal Spring has become your breakfast and brunch place to be.
Whether you eat indoors or out, you now have two reasonably priced restaurants right on Crystal Spring Avenue. You can walk right across the street and go to church; or walk two blocks and go to the hospital. It just doesn't get any more convenient. Such is the allure of neighborhood eateries.
Outdoor dining is more relaxed and fun than indoor dining. A recent breakfast of ham, eggs and biscuits at Anthony's was made more fun by an adjoining table of fellow diners laughing it up and using a homemade pea shooter (they were actually shooting mini-marshmallows) to keep things lively. All in good fun. I've also found myself talking to adjoining tables of folks I know — it's that kind of neighborhood — whereas I might have been more reserved in the confines of a dining room. Well, maybe not.
Anthony's is famous for its breakfasts — eggs, gravy, pancakes, waffles, omelets (my favorite is the Santa Fe: fajita steak, onions, tomatoes and cheese) steak and home fries, among others. All breakfasts are reasonably priced, quickly prepared to order, and always taste delicious. Service, even outdoors, is friendly and attentive. Anthony's by the way, offers one of the biggest homemade biscuits in town.
Anthony's has jumped onto the "low- carb" bandwagon with new French toast and Nature's Own reduced carb breads upon request. I cannot imagine anyone wanting a low-carb French toast, but you have to give them credit for trying. Other "new" offerings for breakfast include the chicken Philly omelet (eggs, thinly sliced chicken breast, mushrooms, tomatoes, Provolone cheese) or the Philly steak omelet (with steak, onions, peppers, tomatoes and provolone).
Outside tables are limited and there's often a wait to grab one, though people are very polite about it and many will just go inside rather than wait.
Down the street a block is Eric's, which finally completed what the former restaurants had planned to do: adding outdoor tables on the front lawn. Again, the shady streets make for a pleasant atmosphere. Eric's Sunday brunch (both inside and out) is picking up steam. The outdoor tables were all taken at 1:30 on a recent lunch trip there; and pretty Sundays make for a lawn full of diners for breakfast and brunch.
Brunch items are a bit more upscale than Anthony's, but you can get waffles and omelets, too. If you're in the mood for eggs Benedict, crab cakes, frittata, shrimp and grits (a personal favorite anytime) cheese blintzes, prime rib and eggs, Eric's has it. The portions are ample, the prices are reasonable, and the presentations are simple but elegant. There are soups and salads, even brunch sandwich platters to please. Neither restaurant offers a buffet. Good for them. All items are ordered from the menu.
Brunch can be made even more enjoyable and laid back with a beverage from Eric's full service bar. Just remember, you're sitting across from a church! Maybe some wine would be appropriate.
I hesitate to make too much of the breakfast and brunch under the trees experience in Crystal Spring, but what the heck, it's not like it’s a well-kept secret anyway. The two restaurants, while competing for business, pull more people to the area for dining. And that's a good thing.
Sunday Outdoor Breakfast:
Famous Anthony's
2221 Crystal Spring Ave.
Roanoke, Va.
981-0200
Sunday Outdoor Brunch:
Eric's Restaurant
2123 Crystal Spring Ave.
Roanoke, Va. 240l4
982-1023
