Wednesday, March 15, 2006
A trip to the Occidental
Larry Bly
Larry Bly runs an ad agency and does freelance writing in the Roanoke area.
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Recently I met up with some friends in Washington, D.C. for a pre-theater luncheon.
I was there to see a show at the National Theater, which is just around the corner from the famous old Occidental Restaurant, a Washington icon in a city of monuments.
The Occidental dates back to 1906 and its own history is intertwined with that of the city and the federal government itself. Opened by the Willard Brothers as a part of the famous hotel that bears their names, it was later purchased and operated by others, but was always a favorite dining spot for the city's elite. Its proximity to the White House also made for convenient dining among the movers and shakers in the federal government.
Aside from expansive walls filled with black and white photos of the rich and famous (some so old even WE didn't recognize them), there are other important appointments to take note of. One booth has a plaque inscribed as the place of..."a clandestine meeting between John Scali, an ABC TV State Department Correspondent, and an unidentified KGB Agent that led to the official negotiated settlement of the Cuban Missile Crises." You'd think that having all of that national political status and foreign intrigue would be plenty enough. But the food's mighty good too!
The Occidental has been renovated in recent times and features a beautiful bar and dark, rich paneled booths and tables sporting white linen with fine silver. Our wait-person was simply the best -- that right combination of excellent service without being intrusive; yet full of positive energy and good humor. And he kept up with the drink orders!
While this place isn't cheap, it is excellent; and we did order a lot of stuff -- appetizers, plus entrees, and, shall we say, plenty of beverages.
I tried the lobster bisque. Rich, creamy, just a hint of brandy with minced chives. Not the most spectacular I've had, but very fine. Another friend had the steamed Prince Edward Isle Mussels, a heaping bowl-full of tender, fat mussels, swimming in a coconut curry broth, lemongrass and red pepper garnish. Even after sharing he was unable to finish them all.
Another in our party tried the pan-seared jumbo scallop (just a single one for $9, but mightily embellished with potato and leek dumpling, chanterelles, and black truffle sauce.) Appetizers and entrees run from $8 to $12, quite reasonable, considering the complexity of sauces and ritzy presentations.
We all could have stopped there. But of course we did not. My entree of grilled filet mignon, served with potato gnocchi, red wine shallot sauce, was tender, perfectly done inside with a crisp outer charred crust. I even ordered some sourdough onion rings, which we all shared. Very nice. My fellow diners tried various other entrees, including the Maine lobster roll, a favorite of theirs. It's served on toasted bread with coleslaw and house-made chips. It will set you back $20; and it's worth every penny.
Our lady friend had her favorite side, steamed asparagus. To me, asparagus is asparagus.
While I've not dined at the Occidental in the evening, my friends often have; and recommended such old favorites as the fresh fish dishes, such as lentil-crusted Chesapeake Rockfish, or the Sautéed Atlantic Salmon, the Sautéed jumbo lump crab cakes, or the pan roasted "Day" jumbo sea scallops, to name a few. Other evening meat entrees range from braised veal Oscar, grilled smoked kosher salt ribeye, and cider brined cider pork chops, to name a few. Nothing ordinary here.
The Occidental is fine dining, the cuisine, American, and the price range is $15-$50. Executive chef, Rodney Scruggs, has developed an interesting menu for even the most finicky among us for either lunch or dinner. The dress is casual, though this classy place makes one WANT to be gussied up, surely.
By the way, I was off to the men's room when the check arrived for $400.
But don't worry, I paid my part eventually. And we had no one to blame but ourselves. A good time---no make that a REALLY GOOD TIME--- was had by all.
The Occidental Restaurant
1475 Pennsylvania Ave, NW
Washington, DC 20004
(202)783-1475
