Wednesday, February 15, 2006
Trio Bistro an excellent addition to downtown dining
Larry Bly
Larry Bly runs an ad agency and does freelance writing in the Roanoke area.
Recent columns
I've been to Trio Bistro twice for lunch and once for dinner now, and I can tell you they are definitely the triple-threat! Their great atmosphere and classy bar with marble and heavy wood, pairs well with the the swanky dining room and excellent service. It may have taken them an eternity to get open, but they've come out of the gate ready to serve.
Lunches are light on both the stomach and billfold, and feature soups (chili, onion, leek and soup-of-the-day), salads (chinois, cobb, tomato/mozzarella and spinach/bacon) and sandwiches such as BLT ($8), prime rib (I had this and loved it) ($9), blackened-grouper sandwich (had this too, and ate it up) ($8), reuben ($7), barbeque ($7), turkey club ($6), southwestern chicken salad ($6) and smoked-fish salad ($6). All of these items had very reasonable prices for the nice presentation, and include a choice of fries, onion hay, or house salad.
During one of my trips to Trio Bistro, my lovely dining partner and assistant Kim asked the waiter how many wine glasses have broken on those hard marble table tops. He grabbed an empty glass and knocked it over in front of us. It bounced! Turns out they're specially-tempered to withstand the rigors of falling on hard surfaces. But I wouldn't try it if I were you -- in some cases they will break.
The blackened-grouper sandwich I had was excellent, featuring just the right amount of "heat" in the rub. The "onion hay" is a treat with its finely sliced onions, deep fried to perfection with a light batter.
Appetizers included Prince Edward mussels, shrimp scampi (baked), a cheese platter featuring six artisan cheeses, calamari, Chesapeake-style jumbo lump crabcakes, beef carpaccio and tuna tartare to name a few. All of the appetizers are in the $8 to $12 range. Next time I'll probably just choose one of those and a dessert and skip the entree altogether.
For the salad, I tried the tomato and mozzarella with balsamic reduction. It's a great version of the original, but a thin slice of onion in the middle would have just made it perfect. It remains one of my favorite salads in its simplicity and taste.
My dining partner had the spinach and bacon; a nicely-sized salad for $8. I had tried something called an "eggless Caesar" for lunch. It's not my favorite since I'm not fond of Romaine lettuce that I have to slice. It tends to get a bit messy. But it's a nice dressing, and I'm crazy about their focaccia croutons.
We didn't try the soups, which come in the following varieties: lobster bisque, onion leek and soup-of-the-day. Maybe I'll make some room some evening when I'm not doing an appetizer, salad and entree.
The dinner entree list is very simple, offering 10 entrees that range $18 to $30. It has a nice list of steak selections as well.
I had the crab-stuffed shrimp ($32), featuring beautiful jumbo shrimp stuffed with lump crabmeat over rice and veggies with a very light, but delicious, lobster cream sauce. (Those lobsters really know how to make a cream sauce!)
My dining partner had the herb-seared scallops ($28): a plateful of large, perfectly grilled sweet scallops with mushrooms, tomato, sherry ragout and fresh veggies. He couldn't have been more pleased unless I had paid for it.
Other featured entrees include an herb-brined half chicken, rich and sticky pot roast, double bone frenched pork chops (prepared by a double-boned Frenchman no doubt), potato-encrusted salmon, island-style crusted grouper, togarishi grilled yellow-fin tuna and cajun chicken pasta. There are
others, but that should hold you for now.
The steak selections include 7oz filet mignon, 12oz filet, 14oz New York strip, 16oz ribeye, 12oz prime rib (it looked like perfection on a plate) and a 16oz prime rib (for the man who hasn't eaten in a year). Steak "compliments" include lobster tail and shrimp skewers. Steaks prepared "Oscar style," come with blue cheese with the option of mushrooms.
I talked to a lot of diners while I was there, and nearly everyone was impressed with the food, presentation and service. While the dining room tends to be a bit compact, there's no feeling that you're cramped.
There's even a private room in the back that holds about 12 people. I've already booked it for a small group of ladies who are coming to town at the end of the month. They tend to get a little loud sometimes, so this will be great for fellow diners.
The wine-bar is probably the most visable part of Trio Bistro. While you can order mixed drinks, the house specialty is, of course, wine. As a result, they have an extensive wine list of more than 100 to choose from. You may order most selections by the glass or bottle. And if you'd like to try a variety of wines by the glass, they have a special "Trio" tasting price list.
The middle room of this facility is the wine shop, run by the very able Michelle Gillispie, formerly of Lee & Edwards Wine Sellers. Michelle is seen frequently on my TV program. She has a wealth of knowledge about wines, both domestic and imported. She's tried very hard to teach me that there's more to wine than just gulping it: savor it, smell it and then gulp it (quietly).
And then there's the dining room -- intimate but comfortable. Service comes at you in waves, but without being intrusive to your conversations. Food and beverages arrive, even on a busy evening, without much waiting or fuss.
Chef Marc Burnley has done a masterful job of putting this menu together, and an even better job of making sure each plate lives up to the printed description. I dropped a large amount of money on this particular evening, but I went away quite pleased!
The historic market has yet another winning restaurant on its hands.
By the way, I'm told that they will begin serving Sunday brunch (ala carte) March 5. You may wish to call first to confirm.
TRIO BISTRO-BAR-BOTTLE
315 Market Street
Roanoke, VA 24011
540-904-5887
www.triowinebar.com
