Tuesday, October 25, 2005
Knawin' on them Smokey Bones
Larry Bly
Larry Bly runs an ad agency and does freelance writing in the Roanoke area.
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Roanoke has yet another new barbecue place with the recent opening of Smokey Bones. Except for vinegar-based North Carolina "Q," I had no idea we loved the stuff so much -- apparently we do.
It's obvious by the fancy oversized building at Valley View that this is no local effort toward barbecue. And it took more than a small bit of paging through their Web site to find out who's behind this effort.
Turns out it's the Darden Family. (Didn't they used to attend the Cave Spring Baptist Church; or was it the Belmont Christian?) The Dardens also own a few other restaurants you may reconize: Red Lobster, Olive Garden, Bahama Breeze and Season's 52.
The building is a faux-log cabin affair with oversized beams that look as if they were hand-hewn by Paul Bunyan himself. There's a big fireplace, lots of rough wood on the walls and a hardwood floor; it's a very rustic lodge.
And very busy.
On my recent Saturday visit, the place was packed to the rafters. The parking lot was completely full and people were standing outside waiting to get in.
The waiter, a fellow named Colin, was the epitome of cool and like all the other employees I observed, very well trained. That plus good food, is what separates good restaurants from the bad. Get a server without a clue and you'll have a bad experience every time. Colin was in top form, taking food orders, drink orders and joking with the guests. Even though they've been
open a few weeks, he deserves a raise.
Smokey Bones Barbecue features platters of full and half racks of St. Louis-style ribs, hand-pulled pork, brisket, choice steaks, grilled burgers, salads and veggie burgers.
Appetizers include some unusual items: old-fashioned skillet cornbread and Brunswick stew by the cup or bowl. The Brunswick stew was good though I certainly didn't need it with all the food to come.
I ordered a 3-item "create your own platter" combination with barbecue chicken, hand pulled pork and a smoked-beef brisket. Combined with bread and two sides, it was far more than I could eat.
The chicken was crispy brown on the outside and tender juicy on the inside. The pork was also tender and delicious. The beef brisket I found to a tad bit tough however. (I'm not too partial to barbecue beef to begin with.) The barbecue ribs are excellent with a full rack of baby backs.
The sides were are interesting and delicious: mashed potatoes and gravy just like granny used to make; the barbecue-baked beans good, but a bit sweet for my taste; and the creamy coleslaw was a hit with my dining partner. There are others -- French fries, cinnamon apples and fresh steamed broccoli, and something called "Premium sides" that include beer-battered onion rings,
steamed asparagus and fresh corn on the cob (in season).
You can also order steaks, fish and chicken dishes galore, and sandwiches and burgers. Platters include a hand-pulled pork plate, beer-battered fish, smoked turkey breasts, smoked beef brisket and chicken fingers plate. All come with two sides.
There's a short-list of luncheon specials: pork, grilled-chicken flatbread, soup-of-the-day, grilled chicken, smoked turkey breast (sliced) and smoked beef brisket. All items were priced at $7.99.
Desserts include a bag of donuts (hot cinnamon sugar) fresh to order for $4.29. These I must try sometime. They have peanut-butter pie and apple cobbler a la mode among others.
Smokey Bones seemed to be an instant hit, though the fickle Roanoke crowd always loves a new restaurant offering. Judging from the remarks of those around me, I'd say they have some menu items that people love. Barbecue, like Italian fare, tends to be very forgiving -- it travels well and the food lends well to a franchise restaurant. This one, as might be expected from the Olive Garden folks, is a (pardon the pun) well-oiled operation.
By the way, Smokey Bones doesn't waste much paper on menus -- your placemat serves as your menu for both lunch and dinner.
Smokey Bones Barbecue and Grill
4813 Valley View Blvd.
Roanoke, VA 24012
540-563-0042
www.smokeybones.com
