Larry Bly

Larry Bly runs an ad agency and does freelance writing in the Roanoke area.

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• Column archive

• Recipe of the day

I must be old-fashioned. If I'm going to do cafeteria-style eating, I'd probably prefer K&W Cafeteria. It's a bit cheaper and in some cases better that Ukrop's, but I'm warming to Ukrop's as I discover what they do well and not so well.

My first lunch there was perfectly delicious, if not totally hot by the time I figured out where to check out and then found the upstairs tables and then got all of my condiments. The crab cake was of real quality, though a bit pricey for a cafeteria-style meal. My side dish, mac and cheese, was creamy and cheesy and plentiful.

I've had a few issues with soups at Ukrop's. The first time I bought chili, it contained crunchy, undercooked beans. The flavor was great, but the beans were a distraction.

I recently tried an old favorite, Italian wedding soup. It wasn't just tame; it had little flavor whatsoever. How could this be: a combination of Italian sausage, cabbage and broth should surely yield some memorable moment on the tongue. I realize that local chefs make huge sacrifices by toning down herbs and spices in an attempt to please the masses. But sometimes they go overboard to not offend.

I also recently picked up a turkey breast sandwich for my assistant here at the office. No fast-food sandwich could beat this one for price and freshness. It started with six-grain bread, topped with freshly baked turkey slices, tomato and lettuce. The sandwich was enough for two meals, and was a real value at only $3.89. 

By the way, once you learn the checkout system and discover that Ukrop's offers upstairs, downstairs and outside dining, it's a snap getting through with plenty of time to spare. The tables are filled with healthcare professionals, blue-collar workers and all types of eaters watching their budgets (and the time).

I decided, also, to try the fried chicken, which friends had recommended.  A huge chicken breast, juicy on the inside and crunchy-fried on the outside, cost $3.18 and was more than I could eat for lunch.  But I certainly tried.

The chicken delivered great taste, as promised! The store also has other pick-up or takeout items always on hand: pre-made sandwiches and a great selection of pizzas and calzones. The ready-made desserts and salads are worth your time and money.

Ukrop's promotes their prepared meals with "dinner for two" options, pre-packaged and ready to be picked up in the deli area or at the information desk. Pick-up dinners have included beef Stroganoff with sides, chicken cobbler with salad and baked apples, fettuccini Alfredo, stuffed peppers, lemon chicken, shepherd's pie, grilled chicken and chicken burrito, to name a few. These dinners will run you $10.99 to $11.99 -- and that's for two.

While the bakery is in a separate location from the breakfast/lunch/dinner food area, I recently picked up a birthday cake for a friend -- a red velvet cake with cream cheese icing.  The woman who worked at the bakery was kind enough to squirt my friend's name on the top and even gave me a handy-dandy plastic cake cutting device.

The cake was moist, though the icing tended more to sugary/sweet and could maybe have used a bit more cream cheese. I might be the only person in the world to complain about something being too sweet. Generally, I give the bakery at Ukrop's high marks: The cookies are freshly baked, as are the cakes and pies; the staff goes out of its way to be helpful.

Would I, an old traditional cafeteria fan, eat at Ukrop's again? I sure would. Might just do it again this week; you just never know. I really am eager to try the made-to-order omelets, served only on announced days.

Ukrop's has threatened to take its buns and head back to Richmond if business doesn't soon improve here. I hope that doesn't happen. The grocery business is not the only one hurting in this economy, so try not to take it personally, guys. I think that once the Walgreens opens next door, things will perk up a bit. I'm even getting used to stopping in on my way home to pick up a few items from time to time.