Larry Bly

Larry Bly runs an ad agency and does freelance writing in the Roanoke area.

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• Bubblecake: Aren't you a sweet little cupcake?
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• Recipe of the day

Just off Colonial Avenue in the spot formerly known as Captain Paul's Seafood, and right next to the Heavenly Ham, is the all-new Golden Moon Restaurant, previously known as Tito's. Featuring mostly Italian food with some Egyptian items thrown in -- for instance, the Egyptian bread, which is light and buttery and delightfully garlicky, and a very nice Alexandria shish kabob -- this restaurant features some real winners on the menu.

I have no idea where the name comes from. "Golden Moon" sounds as though it might be an Asian restaurant, but no matter, it has found a better home in the new location. The old location on Brambleton Avenue was pretty much worn out way back when the El Rodeo was there. Dark and dirty, it detracted from the excellent food coming out of the kitchen. But no more! The new location is clean, open and bright.

The menu hasn't changed much, if at all. There is a separate lunch menu, featuring many of the evening entrees but at a smaller price. I tried the house stromboli, amply filled with mozzarella, pepperoni and ham. It was served with a homemade side sauce that was rich with a tomato/meat combination. They do a great job with sauces here.

Among my favorite and fairly unique entrees that I've tried is the Chicken delecasa, which is chicken cooked with sun dried tomatoes, fresh garlic (I just love their liberal use of garlic), olive oil and herbs; served with Alfredo, pink or marinara sauce.

I'm not sure, but I think the "pink" sauce is more than likely a vodka sauce and it's offered with several dishes. Then there's a "chicken loca": cooked with mushrooms, red pepper, spinach, herbs and fresh garlic, with the same choice of sauce over spaghetti. The veal scallopini is, as the waitress explained it, "to die for," which I'm not willing to do. But it really is an exceptional version of this dish.

There's a little something for everyone, from juicy calzones and standard pasta dishes to hot and cold subs and sandwiches. The Greek and antipasto salads are exceptional and plentiful -- especially nice for light lunch eaters.

The appetizers run from the ordinary -- fries, chips, shrimp cocktails -- to the the unusual: cheese knot bread and the aforementioned yummy Egyptian bread. Be aware: The Egyptian bread is more than two people can eat. Or, eat it and skip the meal because you'll be full.

Because I'm fond of Golden Moon's homemade sauces, I find their pizzas to my liking as well. The pizzas run the gamut from personal pizzas for lunch to all manner of exotic fare: Hawaiian pizza (with pineapple, ham and cheese), Lucy South pizza (eggplant, spinach, garlic and cheese) or a nice white pizza with spinach, garlic, tomatoes and ricotta cheese. There's a meat lovers pizza as well.

There is no bar service, just soft drinks, tea, coffee and milk.

The open kitchen has been eliminated, so we're deprived of seeing the two guys at the stoves, which I used to enjoy. I can't say that I blame them -- most kitchens aren't all that much to look at to begin with. Their menu slogan claims, "Great food for the great customer." Who could argue with that?