Thursday, October 09, 2008
Fine dining at Myrtle Beach
Larry Bly
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I recently enjoyed a few days at Myrtle Beach, S.C. The last time I was there was about 25 years ago and my pocketbook and tastes were limited. This time I enjoyed the luxuries of life and a few nice meals to go with it, including the obligatory captain's platter (Calabash-style) at one of the established seafood restaurants .
You have to do that or it wouldn't be the beach. And boy, was it great. Some things never change about going to the beach -- any beach. One of them is having a heaping pile of fried delights from the ocean. This one was preceded by sticky-buns, fresh breads and a big cup of fish stew. If at home, one would normally stop right there. But no, we were just beginning.
The fried seafood platter was next and somehow, most of it disappeared as well. This type of comfort food has served the family that runs it well for nearly 37 years at Captain's Quarters. No wonder.
But this is not an article about them. On one of several evenings out, we decided to avoid traditional seafood offerings and go for a more upscale dining experience. So we chose the Thoroughbreds Restaurant, featuring "gourmet seafood and continental cuisine," as their materials boast.
We were not disappointed. It's pricey. But it's excellent in every way. The decor is upscale. The bar, while empty, looked alluring. Dark paneling added to the richness of the experience, and the service was attentive without being intrusive to the fascinating conversation at our table. Well, the conversation was silly, but we were out for a good time.
A friend started with the escargot, served in herbed garlic butter and panko-style breadcrumbs. I've become a big fan of panko-style crumbs, Japanese in origin and more tasty that what we've become used to. It really adds a whole new personality to foods. These were excellent
I tried something called "Oysters on Horseback" (you've probably figured there's a horsy-theme thing going with this restaurant, though I'll try not to ride it death. The Horseback oysters are sort of Oysters Rockefeller, but without the Rockefellers. They're topped with sautéed spinach, smoked bacon and "sauce béarnaise," which is something like béarnaise sauce, I suppose. I'll put these up against the more tradional Oysters Rockefeller in flavor and tenderness.
Of the entrees, listed under "Belmont Steaks" (clever), I chose the filet and shrimp béarnaise, which was 8 ounces, grilled to perfection steak with one big honkin' colossal shrimp on top, which was equally juicy and delicious. It was all topped with béarnaise sauce -- I seemed to just be sopping up béarnaise all evening -- and a small sprig of something that eluded me. This is the kind of meal that gives great steak houses their greatness.
A friend had the "filet and cake," which was an 8-ounce certified Angus accompanied by a luscious and delicious Low Country crab cake. Satisfaction reigned. I'm not sure what makes a Low Country crab cake different from, say, a Chesapeake style crab cake, but it was lightly browned on the outside and had very little filling -- mostly just white flakes of crab meat.
For more traditional fare, one could look under the "Kentucky Derby" heading, not to be confused with the Kerwood Derby of Rocky and Bullwinkle cartoon fame. Here one may order veal Francaise, seared calf's liver, chicken Dijon, duck du jour, Jim Beam rack of lamb, or a double pork chop.
We actually made to the "Home Stretch," which is dessert and I could not resist the Kentucky Derby Pie, which is pecan done in the Southern traditional style with two scoops of ice cream, and drizzled with caramel and Brandy Alexander cream sauce. Gee, no wonder I hardly remember the bill, which was substantial. And no, I wasn't driving. I do recall that it's one of the finest desserts I've enjoyed in some time.
And while this is a classy place, do not think them snooty. I was curious about the "Bikers welcome" message on their reader board outside. I was told that during the big biker week at Myrtle, they avail their dining room to all with a rare, but hearty buffet for any and all. So good for them.
I'd give these folks high marks all around.
THOROUGHBREDS
9206 North Kings Highway
Myrtle Beach, S.C. 29592
843-497-2636
Monday-Thursday: 5 p.m.-10 p.m.
Friday/Saturday: 5 p.m.- 11 p.m.
Sunday: 5 p.m.-10 p.m.
