Thursday, August 07, 2008
Return of the Thai Orchid
Larry Bly
Larry Bly runs an ad agency and does freelance writing in the Roanoke area.
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The original Thai Orchid landed ever so gracefully in exactly the wrong spot at the wrong time in downtown Roanoke the first time around. Originally in the ill-fated Jefferson Restaurant location, across from the equally-ill-fated Patrick Henry Hotel, they had barely opened when the building was sold, and shortly thereafter, razed to make way for the new Social Security Administration building on Jefferson Street, now under construction.
Just as the original Thai Orchid started to hit its stride and garner a following, the owners were forced to close. Now these many months later, they've re-emerged up on First Street, around the corner from the Post Office in the former location of Legends/Swagat/Fill-in-the-Name of any of five restaurants you can remember there.
It must have taken them a month just to move all of those overly bright faux flowers alone. One is fairly assaulted by this blob of color upon entering the foyer of the restaurant. In fact, you must nearly jump up and down to be noticed for seating purposes, lest you be lost in the psycodelic flora.
A buffet is planned; the ABC license is also expected.
I had a Gai Harrappron with chicken, nuts and freshly cut sautéed veggies in a light brown sauce. The sauce, slightly sweet, was exactly what one expects from the complex mix of Thai herbs and spices -- and it did not fail to impress. It was crunchy, hot and delicious.
I also tried the Thai egg rolls, fresh and blazing hot from the deep fryer, served with an overly sweet sauce on the side. While not unusual or exceptional in any way, it was more than satisfactory. I think I must prefer spring rolls, but I can never remember which one when I order.
On my second trip to the Orchid, the place was packed and the overworked owner/operator/waiter/water person/greeter had his hands full (literally) but was pleasant and not breaking a sweat. Old fans of the place were back in numbers, as were others who work in nearby offices.
This time around I had the Pad King Sod, the lunch version. I got this one at his suggestion because I wanted a Thai dish with that wonderful combination of chili, lemon and ginger. Those flavors, all fighting for your taste buds' attention, wins me over every time. This one had plenty of chopped veggies and much ginger going for it. A perfect rice is served on the side. Most lunch specials are in the $6.99 or so range.
My dining partner wanted something really spicy and ordered the Pad Thai Shrimp with extra burn. She got more than she bargained for. The portions are huge, the shrimp plenty and fat, and the spicy hot delivered big-time. Though a lovely lady, she was, as we used to say in the country, "sweatin' like a pig" before it was all over. She finally had to give up despite drinking a gallon of water. If you want spice, the cook will be happy to deliver.
I've yet to try a curry dish, though it's on my agenda. Thai curry is distinct from all others; I especially love a curry chicken with cashews. Many of the best Thai dishes feature either peanuts or cashews. There are about a half dozen curry dish combinations: seafood, prawns, calamari, pork, beef or chicken. Most feature a curry in coconut milk with combinations of meat, potato or rice, carrots, and/or onions.
Noodles are a Thai specialty, and the Thai Orchid delivers with a seafood noodle, featuring beans, sprouts, and cilantro. There's a Guay Tew Tom Yum (betcha can't say that five times in a row) which features spicy noodle soup with ground pork, prawns, calamari, bean sprouts and celery.
For those who enjoy being all stirred up, try the stir fried noodles. Or some of my favorites: Pad Thai, Chow Mein, Rad Nah, Orchid Noodles (rice, peanut sauce, meat), Pad kee Maq (drunken noodle), Pad see-ew, Thai fried rice and sweet basil, to name a few.
There are dinner entree stir-fried dishes galore, everything from spicy tofu to teriyaki and sweet and sour chicken. The wonderful thing about the Thai menu is that it features such varieties. Even the vegetarian fare is delicious, fresh and interesting. The prices aren't bad either: there's hardly anything on the menu over $13.
Maybe it was the just the bad karma at the old Jefferson Inn location. But I now find myself liking this restaurant much better since it's reopening.
Thai Orchid
303 First St. SW
Roanoke, VA 24011
<540) 342-3338
