Thursday, July 17, 2008
Harrison's is 'O-Cay' by me
Larry Bly
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Located in the Sunset Cay Marina at Smith Mountain Lake, Harrison's is a sprawling and impressive restaurant operation. You can either be seated waterside outdoors or in the large and well-appointed insides. There's a huge dining room with views all around and a great little bar that must be hopping on weekends -- when the Sunday buffet is not set there, naturally.
I met some friends after a weekend stay at a friend's lake home, arriving for Sunday brunch. The place was hopping, and that was before the church crowd started arriving.
You may choose a reasonably priced buffet as many people did one recent morning: the groaning board offers a big variety of breakfast items: pancakes, biscuits, fruit, eggs, gravy, various breakfast meats. While it looked yummy, we were all in the mood to choose from menu items. We were not disappointed.
I had the Farmer's Breakfast, even though I'm really NOT a farmer (though I was raised on a farm as a boy): two eggs done my way, choice of bacon or sausage, buttermilk biscuit (picture perfect) and fresh tomato slices. It's a biggy at just under $7 and everything was done to order.
A fellow diner had the Castaway Eggs Benedict, done in the traditional manner with Canadian-style bacon on a toasted English muffin, improved over the original with the addition of saffron cream sauce, which finishes it perfectly.
Omelets ooze melted butter and cheeses. The classic Western pleased, as well as the vegetarian omelet. There are lox and bagels, something called "PanCays" (a play on the Cay Marina, obviously), which are pancakes, and steak and eggs, featuring an 8 oz. Black Angus beef rib eye. Having just spent two days grilling red meat, I had to force myself away from this menu option toward lighter fare. But I love steak and eggs and this is a nice presentation.
For those interested in salads and lighter fare, which are served daily until they close, there are numerous house salads, soup dujour by the cup or bowl, grilled chicken salad, and chilled iceberg lettuce with smoked bacon, tomatoes and crumbled Gorgonzola. I loved the Cobb salad; a fellow diner had the "quiche of the day," which was light and fluffy and tasty; more than likely a traditional Lorraine.
You can order up all sorts of burger and sandwiches combinations. The menu is so varied that most of it works for lunch or dinner.
We tried out the fried green tomato stack: beautifully served with shredded mozzarella, and while I've had more interesting and tasty versions of this dish, this one was fine. There are wings, bruscetta, fried pickles, seafood fondue, which sounds fabulous: scallops, lobster, smothered with Swiss Mornay cheese and served in a classic French boule.
Dinner entrees, which I have not tried, tend toward surf and turf items: prime rib, crab cakes, salmon, shrimp scampi, and twin rock lobster tails, a "sampler" of catfish, shrimp and sea scallops. There really IS a surf and turf: 12 oz. Angus rib-eye with a rock lobster tail drizzled with house made lemon her butter -- and not a bad value at $29. You almost cannot do that at home for that money.
The simple menu belies the vast amount of variety listed, though the type is a bit smallish. But once I was able to read it, and then once I was able to sample it, it was all worthwhile.
Our service was attentive and friendly. The kitchen was quick with our meals despite the growing crowds as we waited. Attention to detail around us seemed impressive. One grumpy patron complained about the lack of soap in the bathroom. It was replaced within minutes.
There's full bar service and they take all major charge cards. The bar is attractive and features a marble top and stacked local stone wall. It's a beaut!!
HARRISON'S
Sunset Cay Marina (near Hales Ford Bridge)
Dine in or take out
(540) 297-3444
