Thursday, June 12, 2008
Bad Wolf -- good wolf
Larry Bly
Larry Bly runs an ad agency and does freelance writing in the Roanoke area.
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One of Roanoke's established barbecue places is still one of its best. Bad Wolf, located for the past two years on Williamson Road, still packs them in for the daily luncheon buffet, which allows you to sample at least three types of barbecue, and its theme nights,such as Tuesday night rib specials.
While Bad Wolf usually shines -- I remember a particularly delicious, thick and tasty bean soup a few years back -- they will occasionally fall a little short. A recent bowl of brown beans could have used some seasoning or at least a brush with a ham hock. But the barbecue is always right on to my taste buds. The sauce is a perfect marriage with just about any meat selection -- my favorite being pulled pork barbecue. There are several sauces, in fact, depending upon the amount of "hot" you desire in both tomato base or Carolina style vinegar base.
Bad Wolf offers chicken, pork, ribs and combo platters that include either pulled or chopped -- and a ton of great sides that have become Bad Wolf standards. The the like-homemade potato salad comes to mind, and those lovely baked beans. Oh yes, and a big basket of home-cut French fries. None of that stuff from the freezer bag here.
The barbecue sandwiches are piled high with meat, and an addition of hush puppies and/or slaw makes it worth the trip if Williamson Road isn't in your usual range.
Barbecue places get a bad rap sometimes because many people perceive barbecue as "heavy foods." But at Bad Wolf there are a ton of chef salads on the menu with and without meat; and even a grilled Portobello chef that includes lettuce, Portobello mushrooms, tomato, onions, cheese, and croutons. Super shefs are reasonably priced.
About the only thing I've not tried on this menu, both lunch and dinner, are the ribs. Don't know why, though I have other preferences. You get can smoked port ribs, whole rack, right off the grill. A half rack, which is a lot of eating, won't set you back more than $7.25; a full rack $14.25; and a rib platter that features cole slaw, hushpuppies and a choice of twosides) goes for less than $20.
Bulk orders are available, of course, by the pound, hot or cold.
A longtime Bad Wolf customer favorite would be the homemade smoked chicken salad. It's almost difficult to imagine being satisfied with plain old chicken salad after you've had the smoked variety. It's hard to smoke a chicken -- getting their little feet in the pipe and all. Order up tenders or wings anytime.
For those less adventurous, there are burgers and non-barbecue sandwiches, grilled bologna, hot dogs, garlic pepper chicken, plain grilled chicken and something called the Confeddi Burger, which is a throwback to another great old Roanoke restaurant that I used to frequent. This burger is memorable for its sautéed onions, sweet rib sauce and mild cheddar cheese, topped with lettuce and thousand island dressing on a toasted bun. It brings back great memories of the old Confeddis and the great folks who worked there, some of whom are now in the Bad Wolf kitchens.
Bad Wolf Barbecue
5236 Williamson Road
Roanoke, VA
(540) 362-9095
Lunch and Dinner
Closed Sundays
Full Bar service and separate bar area as well Major credit cards
