Thursday, May 08, 2008
Macaroni Grill almost pleases
Larry Bly
Larry Bly runs an ad agency and does freelance writing in the Roanoke area.
Recent columns
I would be the first to admit that my friends set me up for a big letdown. Nothing could have lived up to the accolades heaped on the Macaroni Grill. Fact is, nearly every one of the four of us at my table were disappointed with one thing or another: a wait-person just a bit too bubbly who swooped down on the table every few minutes but accomplished very little, slow bar service, food that was served warm at best.
Our Romano's Macaroni Grill is located in Greensboro, the closet I image, to the Star City. The Grill is a part of a massive food emporium owned by the Brinker Corp., which owns quite a few respectable other names as well: On the Border Mexican, Magiano's Little Italy (this one impressed me mightily a few years back), and the most famous of all and my favorite -- Chili's. The company owns and operates 1,600 restaurants worldwide employing 100,000 people with $4 billion in annual sales, according to their Web site. So they're to be forgiven for a few fumbles on a recent Sunday afternoon. That's a lot to keep up to.
A brick oven pizza called the Margherita delivered in the taste department. Setting atop a perfect pizza crust, it was brimming with classic taste -- tomato sauce, mozzarella, and fresh herbs, spices, and tomato pieces. Problem is, it arrived nearly cold the first time around, and after two more tries back to the kitchen, managed to make it to moderately warm, but not enough to please my fellow diner. I don't blame restaurants for not delivering them red hot. People would burn themselves and sue. What a great society we've bred! But pizza should be hot and this was not. Tasty. But hardly warm. You'd think that just dragging it back and forth from the table to the kitchen would have warmed it a bit.
My Vodka Rustica did arrive hot and delicious, though they're not kidding when they say "... in a zesty tomato-cream sauce." My waiter warned me that it came with a kick. It did. A kick that stayed with me until blessed Prilosec relief later in the day. Nonetheless, this classic combination of penne pasta, chicken, smoked prosciutto was much to my liking.
Another friend had the Penne Rustica, which was a nice combination of pasta, shrimp, grilled chicken and smoked prosciutto baked with a coat of Parmesan cheese. To the exact opposite of my dish, he felt that his could have had a bit more flavor.
Oddly, the very most pleased among us ordered something that I'd probably never go for in an Italian franchise: The grilled salmon featured a honey-teriyaki glaze and served with orzo spinach pasta. The filet was fresh, tender, grilled to perfection, and the glaze was not overpowering or sweet. I was even convinced to give it a try and I give it high marks. Not bad, because salmon is not among my favorite fish choices.
For dessert, we had a tiramisu that was quite respectable with an original recipe of ladyfingers soaked in espresso, then layered with rich mascarpone sauce. Nothing compares with the fresh tiramisu of authentic small Italian restaurants, so it's unfair to even talk about it. But I will. The traditional recipe calls for the ladyfingers to be soaked in Amaretto and Kalua and/or Tia Maria. However, this place caters to families and I'm sure that the tiramisu must be without such sinful ingredients for the sake of sobriety. Nothing worse than a bunch of drunkin' kids.
Macaroni Grill does the basics pretty well. Sauces are lively and flavorful and brimming with all things Italian; spaghetti and fettuccine alfredo could hold their own against most; chicken dishes excel: chicken scaloppini, chicken parmesan (if a bit dry at our table), and chicken or veal marsala, with a rich garlic and marsala wine sauce.
This restaurant is aimed for families, and the menu prices reflect this. Most entrees are in the $12-$15 range and the portions are large. The pizzas (four in all) are sensibly priced for less than $10. Sandwiches are in the $8 range, featuring a roasted chicken and cheese, a brick oven meatball sandwich, a chicken Caesar calzonetto, and a half and half salad deal, for lunch only.
I found the bar to be a nice spot to dine, though it gets a bit loud from time to time, but the bar is very large and the room filled with bar stools, roomy table booths, and some stand-alone tables off to the end.
The menu runs five panels and there's virtually something for everyone. Pasta dishes may even be created by you by choosing the type of pasta (eight choices), the type of sauce (again eight choices) and up to three ingredients from a list of over a dozen. Add a combination of meats for even more individualized eating. If you don't like what they bring you in this category you have no one to blame but yourself.
The service is friendly, though a bit rushed and spotty on one afternoon.The place does a an incredible take-out business from the back bar area.
Platters for parties are available as well, with a separate menu and pricing for feeding groups.
There is full beverage service.
Romano's Macaroni Grill
3120 Northline Ave.
Greensboro, N.C. 27408
(and all over the US)
336-855-0676
Bly for now.
