Wednesday, December 15, 2004
What's the pointe? It's the food and the view!
Larry Bly
Larry Bly runs an ad agency and does freelance writing in the Roanoke area.
Recent columns
There's a new out-of-town spot that's worth the time getting there: The Pointe Restaurant at Mariners Landing. Finding it is half the fun, taking you through some wonderful countryside, as well as the bright city lights of Huddleston. Once you get there, you'll KNOW you're there. The condo hotel rises high above the water, affording a lovely view of Smith Mountain Lake even from the ground-floor restaurant, The Pointe.
Chef Glenton Goodwill is from Jamaica and has put premier menus in place. They serve Sunday brunch, which is bountiful in every way, offering way too much food; then homemade desserts galore on top of that. They also serve lunch, mostly soups and sandwiches and lighter fare: Southern fried chicken, seafood cobb salads, classic Caesars, chicken cordon blue sandwiches, burgers, clubs and barbeque sandwiches.
Appetizers are more than interesting. Worth trying is the fried soft-shell crab served on a warm seafood salad. Or Shrimp St. Tropez, which is pan-seared jumbo shrimp with tomato concasee, capers, lemon zest and fresh herbs in a pernod cream sauce. How about jerk chicken quesadilla (is there a Jamaican influence going here?), mussels au gratin and oyster Goodwill au gratin — fresh oyster with lump crabmeat and spinach, topped with fresh herbs, parmesan cheese and bread crumbs. Most appetizers are in the $6-9.50 range.
Dinner entrees are exciting and often complex. Breads and soups are freshly made and vary from night to night. Announced evening "specials" are always something very special. A sampling of entrees offered recently included: tournedo of black Angus beef with bleu cheese crust on marinated portabella, Jack Daniel's cream sauce (Jack's really getting around these days) with red skin whipped potatoes and seasonal vegetables.
That's just ONE entree.
Other entrees include: jumbo lump imperial crab cakes served with champagne mustard sauce, potatoes and veggies; filet of Chilean sea bass over shrimp and crayfish ragout with whipped potatoes and seasonal vegetables; coconut and macadamia nut-crusted red snapper with tropical fruit salsa, key lime beurre blanc, red skin whipped potatoes, and veggies; potato-crusted yellow fin tuna pan seared with black bean garlic sauce, topped with mushroom ragout, potatoes and veggies.
Other items of interest are salmon filet with crayfish ragout on toast points, or maybe the lobster tail with a 6-ounce pork filet in port wine sauce (talk about your surf and turf!). There's even a nod to the chef's background: Rasta pasta with pan roasted veggies in a basil infused oil, avocado, spinach, mango, and feta cheese all served over angel hair pasta.
These entrees are upscale without being overly pricey — starting at $18, topping out at around $26. Some specials, depending on complexity, could run a few bucks more.
I've met Chef Goodwill and he's a man of few words, but his menu speaks volumes for him: This guy's putting out some sophisticated foods.
Desserts run a whole page, most or all prepared on premises: carrot cake with cream cheese frosting, angel food cake with berries, whipped cream and a light vanilla sugar sauce, Xango cheesecake (served with crème anglaise), key lime pie, chocolate cheesecake, creme brulee (had it — nearly passed out — truly some of the best), bourbon pecan pie (you'd better believe it's good), bananas Foster (wasn't he Foster Brooks's wacky uncle?), and assorted ice creams.
The room is spacious and new, the view is exceptional and the service top drawer. Even the service for the Sunday buffet was excellent, with servers regularly coming by to ask if all was well or to refill glasses and cups. There's full bar service, including a nice selection of wines.
If you're not familiar with the Huddleston area, you might call or write for instructions on how best to get there. Dinner is served Tuesday through Saturday; lunch Wednesday through Saturday. Brunch is on Sunday only.
The Pointe Restaurant
1037 Whitetail Drive
Huddleston, Va. 24104
You may also arrive by boat — they have their own marina and docks.
(540) 297-3200
(800) 491-8491
Web site
